Budget BPU Upgrade Guide

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Old 04-19-2008 | 12:45 AM
  #1  
240-kid's Avatar
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From: Kaimuki, Hawai'i
Budget BPU Upgrade Guide

Well I've found myself sitting on my *** once again doing nothing but looking at parts. So I came up with this BPU budget guide for all you SR20 guys. BPU is a term the Supra guys use for, Basic Performance Upgrades. To them a BPU set-up consists of; Air filter kit/Cone filter, Turbo mani, Turbo elbow/extension, Down-pipe, and a Boost controller. But for us, I added a few things; a Small-sized FMIC, Hot-pipe, BOV, a Test-pipe & Exhaust. A stock S13 Red-top should put down around the 160-170 mark in complete stock form w/ a SMIC and maybe an wlboro only because it's a smart thing to do. All of these upgrades can get up up around the 220+ mark, depending on the condition of your motor, and what version SR20 you have. Of course the S14 will put down more power because of the T28 and NVCS, but once you replace the turbo, that will not matter as along with a new turbo comes cams and most cams eliminate the S14's NVCS. That is the reason why I'm using the S13 Red-top as the guide for the power range.

Air Filter/Intake kits: Price Range: $80 - $89
All air intakes are universal between all SR20's

HKS Direct Drive Filter: $80

Blitz LM Filter: $88

Greddy Air NX Filter: $89


Next is the FMIC, but we'll have to start with a Hot-pipe

Hot-pipes:
Both Hot-pipes posted are just the pipe, no flange for BOV are on it

Greddy Hot-Pipe: $89
S13 - S14

BOV:
When running an aftermarket BOV, I would recommend running it in re-circulation mode for when you vent to the atmosphere, the MAF has already account for that air and will flood the engine with fuel causing you to run real rich in-between shifts.

FMIC:
this FMIC is only rated to around 350 max and should not exceed that as you are going over it's cooling capacity and are just blowing hot-air into your engine and risk the cause of detonation, besides, this is only the BPU stage.

Greddy LS-Type FMIS: $425
S13 - S14

Moving on to the exhaust side:

Turbo Manifold:
Turbo manifold price range I kept under $160 so dont expect anything spectacular or HP making monsters, these are just Tubular manifolds for turbo's w/ T25/28 flanges, dont expect anything else. Also they are both bottom mount position mani's. Also these manifold's are meant for Internally WG'd (Stock-ish) turbo's. So don't even think about trying to fit that 38mm Tial WG on here
All turbo mani's posted are Universal Between all RWD SR20 Platforms.

CXRacing.com: $100

MYSR20.com: $125

IntensePower.com: $135

SpeedAction Motorsports: $140

Megan Racing Manifold: $159

Turbo Elbow/Extension:
Turbo elbow/extension price range was kept under the $115 mark.
Again, they are all universal to all RWD SR20 platforms.

SpeedAction Motorsports: $60

CXRacing.com: $80 - $90
Dual Chamber - Single

MYSR20.com: $90

IntensePower.com: $99
Dual Outlet - Single 70mm

Megan Racing: $114

Down-pipes:
Down-pipe price range was kept at the $145 mark and under.
Down-pipes are same as the Manifolds and Extensions.

IntensePower.com: $89

XS Engineering: $99

SpeedAction Motorsports: $100

CXRacing: $100
S13 - S14

MYSR20.com: $100

JVT w/ Flex point: $105

Megan Racing: $115

Project Silvia: $124

Titan Motorsports: $125

JIC Billet DP: $134

Greddy MX: $135

Blitz DP: $145

Test Pipes:
eBay: $5 - $50
Can be found Here

Advan-Emotion: $25
Can be found Here

Exhaust:
Well, due to the msg length limit, the Exhaust segment can be found in the All Motor KA section Sticky.

Last but most definitely not least:

Boost controllers:
I am only posting the Electronic boost controllers.
although the MBC (Manual Boost Controllers) are much cheaper, most ppl like the bling and what not so I figured I'd post the Electronic BC's.
This is a very contorversial but I would keep boost under 10 psi, at max 12.
Price range was kept under $300

Gizzmo MBC: $225

AEM Tru BC: $269

Gizzmo I-MBC: $299

So all in all, the cheapest route possible, excluding the cost of a BOV (of your choice) the lowest total possible is: $1413
If you ask me thats not bad at all for making atleast 220WHP at minimum.
Old 04-19-2008 | 05:24 AM
  #2  
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um i got a dyno sheet with my redtop making 232whp with just a cone filter, greddy type-m intercooler and setting the boost to 14psi everything else bone stock and didnt cost me no $1400...
Old 04-19-2008 | 05:43 AM
  #3  
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,192
From: Starkville, MS.
Interesting information and you got some parts I've been scoping and at cheaper prices too!
Old 04-20-2008 | 11:35 PM
  #4  
240-kid's Avatar
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From: Kaimuki, Hawai'i
Originally Posted by battosaii930
um i got a dyno sheet with my redtop making 232whp with just a cone filter, greddy type-m intercooler and setting the boost to 14psi everything else bone stock and didnt cost me no $1400...
Well I mean power differs as does engine condition, but I said that you should be making 220whp at minimum so... 232 for you is very good
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