Raine's S14 Project: Keira (rawr!)
#95
Some more pics to share with you forum ****** =D
finally got around to doing the "keep my foglights on whenever I want" mod... took one wire and about 10 minutes
in-garage shot of my orange corner lamps for that authentic "hi I'm an N.O.B. fan" feeling
How she first looked when the Flex were installed using my old Tein HE measurements as a starting setting (wrong idea LOL) the car barely cleared the transition between the garage floor and the top of the driveway, not to mention scraping the bottom of the driveway forever when we took the car to the street for this pic!
someone find me new rear side panels so I can fix it. BTW ignore the Hollister, Co. shirt - it's not mine.
group photo on Mt. Wilson... IN PITCH BLACK DARKNESS AT ABOUT 2AM LOL!!!
finally got around to doing the "keep my foglights on whenever I want" mod... took one wire and about 10 minutes
in-garage shot of my orange corner lamps for that authentic "hi I'm an N.O.B. fan" feeling
How she first looked when the Flex were installed using my old Tein HE measurements as a starting setting (wrong idea LOL) the car barely cleared the transition between the garage floor and the top of the driveway, not to mention scraping the bottom of the driveway forever when we took the car to the street for this pic!
someone find me new rear side panels so I can fix it. BTW ignore the Hollister, Co. shirt - it's not mine.
group photo on Mt. Wilson... IN PITCH BLACK DARKNESS AT ABOUT 2AM LOL!!!
Last edited by l2aine; 10-27-2004 at 06:33 AM.
#99
When you have no DSL, you find yourself chasing some old projects that you never started until now LOL
RAINE'S LATEST PROJECT: BRAKE COOLING DUCTS
I hate brake fade. I love mountain driving. Brake fade and aggressive mountain driving go hand and hand, so I decided to try to make my own brake cooling ducts to help bring cold air to the brake calipers.
1. Picture of how the air comes into the brake cooling duct:
The piping I used was a 3" in diameter hard flexible air duct piping from the hardware store. I used this instead of the thinner more common dryer ducting because dryer ducting tears easily. The type I used comes with a solid sheet metal collar on each end, and takes some strength to bend into shape. Once it's bent into shape though, it doesn't change shape of flop around like dryer ducting.
2. Picture of the entire brake cooling duct:
Here's how I ran the duct from front bumper opening, along the side of the front chassis, ending in a bend aimed at the rear of the brake caliper. The rise in the tubing just after the entry is a simple trick to keep water from accumulating inside the tubing on wet days.
3. Picture of how the duct is aimed:
It took multiple tries, but in the end I got the back collar to point at the rear of the brake caliper without getting in the way of anything. At full lock away from the duct (i.e. full lock left for the left duct) the tubing is aimed to shoot air toward the brake caliper. At full lock toward the duct (i.e. full lock right for the left duct) the exit collar is about 20mm away frm the caliper itself, directing the air right to the caliper.
4. Tire and suspension clearance:
I did a few tests on jack stands to make sure that the duct wouldn't interfere with any wheel or suspension movement. This took some rebending and such, but it was worth the effort. There is approx. 30mm clearance between the tubing and the inside corner of the front tires. This clearance is enough so that the tire will not touch the duct, even throughout the entire compression/rebound stroke of the shock.
To allow for this clearance, I had to crush/flatten out a section of the tubing. without the crush, the 3" tubing barely touches the tire corner - but this is on jack stands. With the tires on the ground, the weight of the car would compress the tire a bit and for sure it would touch the tubing.
To make a nice flat spot I used a piece of flat board and a hammer. I put the board against the tubing, then tapped the board with a hammer slowly until the tubing had a nice flat spot in it to clear the tires.
Total cost for the mod: about $20. Each tube is 3" in diameter x 3 feet long. I also used about 6 tie straps on each tube to mount it to the car. Entire job (including fitting the tube itself to the right shape) took about an hour.
Sorry, no pics of the girl today, but I hope you like the car mod
RAINE'S LATEST PROJECT: BRAKE COOLING DUCTS
I hate brake fade. I love mountain driving. Brake fade and aggressive mountain driving go hand and hand, so I decided to try to make my own brake cooling ducts to help bring cold air to the brake calipers.
1. Picture of how the air comes into the brake cooling duct:
The piping I used was a 3" in diameter hard flexible air duct piping from the hardware store. I used this instead of the thinner more common dryer ducting because dryer ducting tears easily. The type I used comes with a solid sheet metal collar on each end, and takes some strength to bend into shape. Once it's bent into shape though, it doesn't change shape of flop around like dryer ducting.
2. Picture of the entire brake cooling duct:
Here's how I ran the duct from front bumper opening, along the side of the front chassis, ending in a bend aimed at the rear of the brake caliper. The rise in the tubing just after the entry is a simple trick to keep water from accumulating inside the tubing on wet days.
3. Picture of how the duct is aimed:
It took multiple tries, but in the end I got the back collar to point at the rear of the brake caliper without getting in the way of anything. At full lock away from the duct (i.e. full lock left for the left duct) the tubing is aimed to shoot air toward the brake caliper. At full lock toward the duct (i.e. full lock right for the left duct) the exit collar is about 20mm away frm the caliper itself, directing the air right to the caliper.
4. Tire and suspension clearance:
I did a few tests on jack stands to make sure that the duct wouldn't interfere with any wheel or suspension movement. This took some rebending and such, but it was worth the effort. There is approx. 30mm clearance between the tubing and the inside corner of the front tires. This clearance is enough so that the tire will not touch the duct, even throughout the entire compression/rebound stroke of the shock.
To allow for this clearance, I had to crush/flatten out a section of the tubing. without the crush, the 3" tubing barely touches the tire corner - but this is on jack stands. With the tires on the ground, the weight of the car would compress the tire a bit and for sure it would touch the tubing.
To make a nice flat spot I used a piece of flat board and a hammer. I put the board against the tubing, then tapped the board with a hammer slowly until the tubing had a nice flat spot in it to clear the tires.
Total cost for the mod: about $20. Each tube is 3" in diameter x 3 feet long. I also used about 6 tie straps on each tube to mount it to the car. Entire job (including fitting the tube itself to the right shape) took about an hour.
Sorry, no pics of the girl today, but I hope you like the car mod
#101
U READ MY MIND =0P perfect ducting! im not sure, but does ur ducting need to be safe (grill it?) just incase those nasty leaves and rocks ride their way in? I'm still a newb enlighten me! Man much props to the rised anti-water part of the duct! PROPS to everything u do! so clean and JGTC-like =0P hahaha
MORE PICS! MORE CANYON PICS!!!
MORE PICS! MORE CANYON PICS!!!
#104
Originally posted by stealthyS14
The pictures just aren't complete without the girl
haha jk, thats a very interesting project you did there..maybe i should take my dsl down and see what i can come up with
keep up the good work!
The pictures just aren't complete without the girl
haha jk, thats a very interesting project you did there..maybe i should take my dsl down and see what i can come up with
keep up the good work!