Gotcha... yeah I like this swap a lot better than an LS-x swap as well.

 

i have a 94 with air...i have a build thread on it...how much u get the motors for?

 

Saw your build thread, nice car. Love the exhaust.

One motor was 200 bucks, it was blown but I bought it to use as a dummy for mount/manifold fabrication. Its the one you see in the car right now.

Another was a good 94 motor, that one was 500 and is still torn down. The block has been bored over, and I'm having headwork done. That will eventually find its way into my S14, but probably not til next year. The 94-96 motors have better heads than the earlier motors... among lots of other things. Budget is holding that one back right now. I'm getting married in October and my Fiancee and I just got a house... so things are tight. Not to mention the economy...

The motor on the engine stand in this pic is a stock rebuild 91 motor that I just cleaned up to get in the car and get it running. It ran great before I pulled it out of the Q it was in.

I also have a 92 motor thats a good running motor that I havn't done anything with yet. It will probably be the one that ends up in my Z. The last 2 motors were basically free. I bought two running and driving Q45's for 1000 (for both), I ripped everything out of them I wanted... engines, bellhousings, brakes, rears, axles, ECUs, harnesses, wheels, hubs, etc.... then recycled the scrap cars for 560 and the 8 cats for 400.... so all of those parts cost me 40 bucks. Good deal I think.

I guess you all might be more interested in the stats of the car as it sits right now...

95 S14 Base Model Auto, gutted
91 VH45DE, the one in the pic...
JW Performance built GM TH400 trans with a reverse valvebody and a transbrake, good for 1000HP
BDE Performance trans adaptor
BDE Performance custom flexplate
JW Performance Torque Converter
Q45 R200V Rear diff with an S14 Ring and Pinion to bring me back to a 4.08 but give me those nice beefy axles.
Q45/Z32TT axles
Q45 5-lug hubs
Custom Driveshaft
S14 SE front hubs
ES Rear everything bushings
Custom Headers (not done yet)
Custom Exhaust (not done yet)
NisTune ECU (Not purchased yet)

I'm building the car to compete in my local 12.0 index bracket class. We'll see how she does...

My Z32 is my twisties car. It's a 92 NA Slicktop.

 

sweet...im sure you already kno about the chain guides on the 1st gen q45 motors...they have an ecu tune you might want to look into for the 1st gen and 2nd gen on nico that i heard was pretty dope. i want to make headers for my second motor. what is the proccess in which your doing that?

 

I already updated the chain guides in my motor, thanks for the heads up though.

I am purchasing NisTune... I tune cars already, so I'd prefer to do it myself.

I've made a CAD drawing of the exhaust manifold flanges and I have a friend that is going to make them for me in the machine shop at work. I purchased a header kit from Summit Racing, it includes a wide variety of bends specifically for making headers. I also purchased a pair of collectors. I'll just work on making the headers clear everything for my application and cut and weld... I'll post pictures of how it turns out.

 

hmm if you tune already we need to talk on some tunes for the 2nd gen vh.and yes lets see those headers i love the diy header setup on the vh. I cant wait to get that done on my car..im sure it frees up a bunch of power.

edit just read info on the tranny...whats that gonna run you for the t400? i was reading about that before and heard it can handle stupid amounts of power...especially when they are built.

 

The tranny is already mated to the VH and in the car...

Trans mounted to the bad block:


Trans Mount:


Trans Mount in car:








Motor Mounts:










RH Mount in car:










LH Mount in car:








Shifter Mounted in car:










Again, sorry for the crappy pics...

The trans was around $1400, that included the transbrake, the valvebody, HD clutches, and being fully rollerized. The Adaptor from www.bde-performance.com was around $500, the flexplate is around $500 (a stock one would still work, I got it for strength later), and a custom torque conveter is around $900. Not a cheap conversion, but steadfast and reliable, it'll take anything I throw at it, and will be much more consistent that a stock electro-slushbox.

 

damn thats awesome i love that setup...looks like you have some craftmanship skills...start with the second gen motor and get that tune going...ohh and get a second gen q so i wont be the only one on club240 i cant wait to see this car up and running.

 

dude, this is pretty darn cool!

but why is it auto? whyyyyyyyyyy?

 

i wanna say its for the power that auto can handle...much more than a z32 5 speed.

 

And to handle the power.

 

Lots of updates...

Engine is in the car:

I dressed a good motor to go into the car...







And now the motor is finally in...







There are a lot of other things I've done to the car that I don't have pictures of or that I havn't mentioned. I replaced every bushing in the rear end, control arms, subframe, diff, etc. I installed a R32 GTR rear, 4.08:1 ratio, large TT-Z style axles, 5-lug hubs. Converted the car to 5-lug, redrilled the stock rotors to work with the 5-lug hubs, obviously gutted the interior, removed all sound deadening, removed bumper supports and fabbed bracket to hold bumpers... yadda yadda. I wish I had pics of it, but I was too busy working to stop for picture breaks.

 

Spent a lot of time on wiring. I basically pulled every harness from the car, then de-loomed them one at a time. I started with the body harness. I used the FSM and traced every wire from the SMJ to their locations at the rear of the car. On an S14 the body harness has the wires for the seatbelt warnings, factory amplifier, rear speakers, and it hast two joint connectors that connect to the trunk harness. The trunk harness has all of the controls for the fuel pump, fuel gauge, fuel light, etc. as well as the taillights. I essentially removed all the wires from the body harness with the exception of the wires that connect to the trunk harness since I want to retain tail lights and the fuel pump. Once I had all of those wires removed I re-loomed the harness and reinstalled it.

I then moved onto the engine room harness and used the same technique. When I was done the engine bay fuse box only has two headlight fuses, one EGI fuel, one ALT S fuse, and ign fuse, the main fusible link, and no relays. In other words, the box is bare. I began relooming the harness and decided that I wanted to relocate what was left of the engine room fuse box into the passenger side of the cabin and relocate the battery to the trunk. I will be running an electric fan with an aftermarket controller, so I will be running some fan wires through the loom that I can use later to hook up the fan. I don't want to need to reloom this harness again, lol. It will really clean up the engine bay, and I'm a big fan of clean installs. Now I'm in the process of re-routing those wires and relooming that harness. I should have it mostly finished tonight and I'll post pics.

Once that's done I'm tackling the main harness that goes inside the dashboard. I've removed all HVAC, the air bags, and the audio system. I still need my power windows to work, since there are no manual windows available for the S14. I can also remove all of the wires that went to the AT control unit since my TH400 is a fully mechanical unit. I've saved the worst for last of course...

Just as a reference, I've save 14lbs of wire weight so far, and the main harness has the most weight to remove. This may be time and labor intensive, but it's free...

Of course when all of this is done, I'll be doing the same with the VH engine harness, since I do not have an EGR, Evap, etc anymore. That and the fact that the harnesses are so heat soaked and the looming is extremely brittle. It will be nice to get some flexible sleeving back on it, and I can tuck all of the wires nicely to keep the engine bay looking clean.

Anyway, here are some pictures to go along with my long boring update above...

What you see in these two pictures is all of the wiring that is left from the engine room harness. This is pretty much the wires to all of the lights, headlights, marker lights, etc. This will get tucked inside the bumper so nothing is visible in the engine bay. I'm leaving it up and unloomed right now because I will need to add in the wires for my electric fans before I can tidy it up. With the exception of the actual engine harness, you won't see any wires inside the engine bay.









This is the now small cluster of wires that passes through the drivers side fenter well and sonnects to the SMJ in the drivers kick panel area.





This is the shrunken and reloomed rear harness and where it connects to the tail harness.





This is the mess around the SMJ. The cluster of wires you see going over the steering column is all of the wires that used to go around the front of the engine bay to the engine bay fuse box on the PS of the car. It is now inside the vehicle and goes over to the battery sitting where the passenger seat used to be.









The engine bay fuse box, or whats left of it, will be shrunk down and mounted to the floor on the passenger side. I'll then run the wires that go to the starter and alternator out through a rubber grommet on the passenger side of the firewall where the AC lines used to go through. I'll also move the battery to the trunk and extend the lines to there.

Before all of that happens I need to strip down the main harness that used to go through the dashboard and remove all the un-necessary wires from that and then relomm it and mount it back under the dash.

This is a lot of work, but with how much it is simplifying the install, dropping weight, and making the entire car cleaner is making the project well worth it.

Wiring left to do in the Fuse Box/Engine Bay harness:

- Add electric fan wiring
- Add Linelock Wiring (wires will come through drivers fenderwell right near the master cylinder, tucked away and clean)

Wiring left to do in the Engine/ECU harness:

- Remove all unnecessary wires (EGR, Canister Solenoid)
- Add Aftermarket Oil Pressure Gauge wires
- Add Aftermarket Water Temp Gauge wires
- Add 2-Step Wiring

Wiring left to do in Main Dash harness:

- Remove lots of wires (AT Ecu, Audio, HVAC, Cluster)
- Add Aftermarket Oil Pressure, Water Temp, and Tach Wires (Plan is to integrate them into the connection between the Engine harness and the Main harness so everything is removeable without cutting like and OEM install)
- Add line lock, transbrake, and 2-step controls. The idea is to add two buttons to the stock steering wheel, then use the 4 airbag wires as the leads for the two buttons. This way I can turn the steering wheel fully without and coiled wire mess. One button will simultaneously trigger the transbrake and 2-step through relays. The second button will trigger the linelock. The reason for triggering through relays is so that I can also add test buttons to independantly control all of them in the center stack on the dash. If they were wired direct the triggering of one would trigger all of them. I want to integrate the relays and fuses into the stock engine fusebox that is now in the car. Should work well and look clean.

Wiring left to do in the lower engine harness:

- Remove AT wiring
- Add transbrake wiring (then add junction to main harness inside car with plug, once again, removeable like OEM)
- Extend Alternator charge wire to trunk at killswitch

Other wiring...

- Relocate battery and add killswitch
- Add relay at fuel pump with direct connect to batter in trunk. Use OEM Fuel Pump power to trigger relay. That way pump gets true 14.4V through heavy gauge wire. Old trick from my DSM experience.

Yeah so that's it for now... I'll have more pictures this weekend when I finish up the dash harness and Engine harness...

 

i need to see this
if you dont mind me asking where in manahawkin do you live? im down by where the skatepark used to be before the bulldozed over it....where the elementry school is

 

Thanks for the enthusiasm.

Honestly, and I don't want this to sound mean at all, but I don't give out my address to anyone. Just from personal experience with theft/vandalism/etc., once the car is done I'd be more than happy to drive it over. Until then it stays where it is. And it will be done by the end of the summer, so you won't have to wait that long.

I don't want it to sound like I think you're the type of person that would do that, I don't think that at all... but you can't be too cautious these days.