Donnies 94 skyline R33 Diary
05-31-2010, 07:44 AM
#436
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Welp got started today. I was not expecting to get the new car today. The guy knew my drive for drifting/racing and was very generous to me. I basically removed all the electronics and prepped the engine to come out. Also put my old Kie Office Coils on the new car so that I can make the old 33 a roller.. Ill be changing the water pump, clutch, misc gaskets and timing belt while its out.
very impressed with the quality of these over-fenders from Ziax. They took the brunt of the wall and didn't even crack.
new car after the coils, hub swap will start tomorrow.
very impressed with the quality of these over-fenders from Ziax. They took the brunt of the wall and didn't even crack.
new car after the coils, hub swap will start tomorrow.
05-31-2010, 03:54 PM
#443
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dude it drive just like a s14 and uses pretty much all the the suspension parts from the s14 to include subframe and axels from certain years. this will be great... also... if this car makes it I may be able to bring this one back with ease because its an 96.
06-01-2010, 06:33 AM
#444
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I didn't get as much done today as I wanted to.. spent a large amount of time after work tracking down a engine lift thanks to buddies Stevo and Matt I got one before sun down. I did however remove the entire drive-train for the most part most of which I will swap into the new car tomorrow.
gotta have the PPE on when going to war lol
gotta have the PPE on when going to war lol
06-04-2010, 10:18 PM
#445
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changing out parts while I can easily touch them
As you can see.. the roll cage stopped the side near the pedal from completely buckling. my mounting plates were undamaged.. proving that when installed right bolt-ins work.. .. Im not saying that welded cages are not bad azz... but for my purpose/situation... bolt-in's are fine
new bay is in great shape. I will spot weld some places to increase rigidity.
about to call it quits for today at about 4ish am
(note: look at the gas pedal lol... not even a half inch from the sidewall.)
As you can see.. the roll cage stopped the side near the pedal from completely buckling. my mounting plates were undamaged.. proving that when installed right bolt-ins work.. .. Im not saying that welded cages are not bad azz... but for my purpose/situation... bolt-in's are fine
new bay is in great shape. I will spot weld some places to increase rigidity.
about to call it quits for today at about 4ish am
(note: look at the gas pedal lol... not even a half inch from the sidewall.)
06-05-2010, 05:32 PM
#446
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Hello Mates
Day three of Car swappage.
I woke up this morning (June 5) and went outside to a bare horse stable. The bay is in decent shape minus a few areas. I decided to try my hand at spot welding to try and keep the bay as sturdy as possible. Did some research on temps and durations of welds to get penetration without burning through the thin metal using my gasless mig setup. It took me 3 hours to complete the strut towers.
After visually inspecting the bay, it’s no wonder they began to crack and separate over the years. As we all know for daily comfort/safety the chassis is build tough but loose for accident purposes. You can see that there are many gaps that can be filled to increase rigidity.
Before I could weld anything I had to clear all of the Japanese goo off the towers, you can see the difference with the sealer removed. If you don’t remove this stuff, it will certainly burst into flames. I recommend keeping water/air available to blow out flames. Also you will not get a clean bond, painting will re-seal the bear metal.
I put a lot of attention into the sections directly below the coilover. It seems that this location takes the brunt of everything. My S13 back home actually separated from the frame-rail. I recommend doing this if you have the time. I will do other sections of the car as time passes.
Engine is in and car ready to run.... I however have a minor electrical issue as the injectors are not clicking. The HR33 and ECR33 are virtually identical however the difference comes in the junction boxes above the ECU (no picture yet). I’m pretty sure that the one blank space is for the ABS system. The smaller plug looks similar to the body harness of the S-chassis that sends your signals for oil pressure, water temp etc to the gauge cluster. Nothing was disconnected from the engine during removal and installation.
At about 3am I ran a quick diagnostics and called it quits for the night. I’ll get it up and running before the day is over for sure. I am curious to see how the chassis responds to the spot welds Ill be welding in fender braces shortly after.
Day three of Car swappage.
I woke up this morning (June 5) and went outside to a bare horse stable. The bay is in decent shape minus a few areas. I decided to try my hand at spot welding to try and keep the bay as sturdy as possible. Did some research on temps and durations of welds to get penetration without burning through the thin metal using my gasless mig setup. It took me 3 hours to complete the strut towers.
After visually inspecting the bay, it’s no wonder they began to crack and separate over the years. As we all know for daily comfort/safety the chassis is build tough but loose for accident purposes. You can see that there are many gaps that can be filled to increase rigidity.
Before I could weld anything I had to clear all of the Japanese goo off the towers, you can see the difference with the sealer removed. If you don’t remove this stuff, it will certainly burst into flames. I recommend keeping water/air available to blow out flames. Also you will not get a clean bond, painting will re-seal the bear metal.
I put a lot of attention into the sections directly below the coilover. It seems that this location takes the brunt of everything. My S13 back home actually separated from the frame-rail. I recommend doing this if you have the time. I will do other sections of the car as time passes.
Engine is in and car ready to run.... I however have a minor electrical issue as the injectors are not clicking. The HR33 and ECR33 are virtually identical however the difference comes in the junction boxes above the ECU (no picture yet). I’m pretty sure that the one blank space is for the ABS system. The smaller plug looks similar to the body harness of the S-chassis that sends your signals for oil pressure, water temp etc to the gauge cluster. Nothing was disconnected from the engine during removal and installation.
At about 3am I ran a quick diagnostics and called it quits for the night. I’ll get it up and running before the day is over for sure. I am curious to see how the chassis responds to the spot welds Ill be welding in fender braces shortly after.
06-12-2010, 03:51 AM
#449
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Finally got rid of the other car today, feels good as I was getting tired of looking at it. I had to drive the car using a pair of vice grips lol fun times. We tossed the RB20 back in there as well, I got paid 20 dollars for the car because things were missing.
yay!!!!! all back together again!!
yay!!!!! all back together again!!
