im happy cause i was talking to a buddy of mine and he told me that i i al allowed to run in CSP. i had thought that just cause i have an SR i have to run in SM but i dont because the SR came in my chassis just not in this country.

anyway im happy cause i just cant be competative in SM the fastest cars are in SM =/

 

Not ot rag on you buddy, but he would be wrong. the SCCA rule book states "the stock USDM engine from the factory must remain in the car", trust me I checked

I'll try to find the exact reference number later

I suppose the kicker might be if you car is actually from japan (RHD and all) then there might be a gray area you could cross there...

 

i recommend sticky Pod..

video sample



i didn't have the vibration mount at the time...... and having a welded diff with stiff rear suspension setup in the rear didn't help lol. I put it on my buddies OE mustang that same day and it was smooth..

 

technically all S14 were made in japan..

anyway my friend has a 92 miata and he was allowed to upgrade to the new 2.0 miata motor

 

Right, but "finally assembly" is in the US (this could be something as simple as slapping badges on the car once its shipped here). But like I said, if you actually bought the car as a whole (RHD, engine, tranny, and all) in Japan and had it shipped here than yes you could probably play in CSP. But because the SR is a motor that was not offered in an USDM 240sx, you would have to move to SM.

Quoted from page 81 of the SCCA solo rule book:

"Cars running in Street Prepared Category must have been series
produced with normal road touring equipment, being
licensed for normal road use in the United States, and normally
sold and delivered through the manufacturer’s retail sales outlets in
the United States. Cars not specifically listed in Stock or Street
Prepared Category classes in Appendix A must have been produced
in quantities of at least 1000 in a 12 month period to be eligible for
Street Prepared Category."

 

Fact is scca techs can't catch everything. Most of it is relying on the driver to be honest. if you get caught, then eehh what ever. Some one would have to be an A$$hole and rat you off if they would feel that the rules were seriously comprimised in there opinion.

As far as video camera I would just get a JVC eviro with SD card. Super durable and you can make a mount for 5 bucks.

 

So here is the custom exhaust I built:



Only 19.5" long, weighs only 5lbs (weighed the stock one and it was 35.5lbs!, 30lb weight reduction ). And according to other dynos I've seen should be good for as much has any other performance exhaust (9-10 whp).

Here is a link to the thread on how I built it if you care to make your own (total cost = $50):

https://www.s-chassis.com/forums/sho...969#post388969

 

10whp? i doubt it.

 

its a stupid rule.. how am i suposed to compete with the guys with stripped out cars 600 awhp with crazy tires and suspension with a stock motor lol.

the guys here in SM in south florida are very good drivers to boot so its like impossible to compete

 

You could build a high compression NA ka with stock sohc pistons, this are legit in most scca classes. OEM is all good man. I don't think ST class allowes to use MODIFIED OEM though.

Like
J30 calipers
maxima MAF
SOHC pistons

 

Thats why most people stay out of SM (Street Modified), it costs too much money to be competitive. SM is the class that allows motor swaps, as long as it's from the same manufacturer of the car, and you can FI it! So if you had the money you could throw in a r26tt, or even a 5.6L from a titan and then S/C it!

ST (Street Touring) would allow the calipers, but not the MAF of SOHC pistons, those would put you into SP (Street Prepared).

 

I love being in any class, I don't care what others are doing. I'm just worried about myself getting faster. Plus around here the SM class has a good variety of cars in it. From AWD Subaru's to a VR4 Galant to a supercharged dodge dakota. Also, I know generally if you get caught cheating you will be labeled that way for a very very long time, as in years...at least around here.

When I went to my first race at the beginning of the season this year I was straight up with them knowing I would get placed in SM. I met a bunch of first/second gen RX7 owners (older guys) and hung around them the whole time. Really nice people around here, except some of those guys that think money is everything and their *cough* vettes *cough* are the ultimate cars in the world.

Right now I'm tearing my car down...my turbo is worn out and I don't want to risk popping it and doing lots of damage.

 

Well the s13 cams are in, it was actually easier than I thought it would be to install. While I don't have the money to dyno after every part I put in the butt dyno says If you have any questions about puting s13 cams into your s14 check out this thread we created:

https://www.s-chassis.com/forums/sho...233#post389233

And here are some pics of the pretty new valve cover I painted myself:

 

Yeah I'm glad you are one of the guys that didn't believe the hype on that 248/248 cam set up. Intake valves are larger than the exhaust valves so typically you will want a larger lobe cam on the exhaust rather than the intake to help scavaging out in the higher RPM range. Evenlly match cams like 232/232, 240/240, 248/248 would give you a midrange cam selection. On a s13 using a 232 cam at all at it will be a drop in power. 248/240, or 248/232 will just make the engine a low end monster, without a very long RPM range.
The 240/248 seems to work the best for a longer range. I was actually able to make peak power in the 6500RPM range with the 240/248. With your G70 your probably making power somewhere in the 6000~6200 range, and it will drag to 7000RPM and still maintain power without a huge significant drop.
Did you check the shim on your cams or just drop them right in?

 

Ya I didn't want to do the 248/248. My first thought was because "well the engineers at Nissan that built this car 15 years ago are going to know best, so I will stick with what they did". But once I got the cover and cams off, I saw exactly what you are talking about, the intake valves are obviously bigger, hence to keep scavenging you are going to want a slightly longer duration on exhaust than you would on intake. And yes the engine does drag a bit from ~6200-7000, so I usually shift at ~6200, and didn't check the shim either.

Also I'd really love to do the N60 MAF swap (I even have one in my garage) but sadly it's not allowed in my class

On a side note: After some research on headers it would seem DC sports and Hotshot (4-2-1) are the best performing headers, however BOTH of these companies stopped making them for the s14. Anyone know where I can still get one? Maybe someone has a used one to sell? Or does anyone know of another brand that is equally as good? (and can back that up with stats on paper/dynos?)

PS - official results still not up for last weekend's event but check out the new sig the photographer made for me