I just bought a S13 and i'm gonna be doing the SR20DET swap and i was wondering what the best LSD would be for it.. i've read in a mag. that ordering a LSD from japan from a real S13 would be the best.. but i was wondering if anyone on here might have any input on this.. or if there are any other interchangeable LSD 's available...


thanks.

 

USDM and JDM R200V LSD's are the same. That mag is feeding you lies, throw it out.

 

lol..arent kaaz lsd's real go0d? ima stick with the stock LSD...

 

i would say Kaaz,ATS,cusco,and




.......phantom grip

 

Thanks guys,


i really appreciate the info... now would any of you know where i could get a JDM R200V and how much?

 

forget kaaz, imma be real, i wanted kaaz too, but imma go with the 180sx lsd pumpkin instead, i just want 2 wheels to spin, it's not like i'm going to drift or road race. just my opinion.

 

aren't j30 lsd's good for an sr20 swapped s13?

 

mechanical LSDs from Kaaz, Cusco, etc have a strong, reliable, and predictable limited slip action. it also offers limited slip function when decelerating or accelerating (2 way)

viscious LSDs like the stock R200V can act lazy at times, and needs time to warm up. Often you will find that in cold weather it acts like an open differential till you drive around awhile and heat it up. It also is less predictable than a mechanical unit, you can go into a corner the same way but find that one wheel will spin more one time and less in other runs. It also only offers 1.5 way limited slip (only during acceleration).

bottom line: want to get into hardcore drifting, drag, and racing? get a mechanical LSD

just using the car for the occational drift, drag, or daily driver? the viscious R200V will do just fine. plus its cheaper

the j30 differential is the same unit as the 240sx vLSD, both are the R200V units. but you have to get a 95-96 model year j30, otherwise you will need proper output shafts to fit it on the 240.

 

I like people that shoot straight and don't fall victim to the name game.

I have the VLSD. It is fun. It is grippy. It is a blast in the rain.

But when I hit the track it forgets to stay locked when I push the car hard and I know this by my tire wear.

I am moving up to a two way ATS clutch packed differencial.

I also upgraded to this for winter driving as a 2 way, dropped stiff car will be too much of a handle and most likey unsafe for winter driving.



I want a VLSD for that bad boy and I would love to throw the KA in there when I get my SR in a year.

 

what about quaife helical lsd's???

 

They are a little heavy on the initial investment but they are very nice. My friend Pete has one in his SOHC Coupe. Locks pretty damn quick.

I don't know if it locks as hard as the ATS though. Plus his is a 1.5 so it does open.

 

qauife only has 1.5 way??

 

HOLY FREAKING CRAP THERE IS AN ASSLOAD OF INCORRECT INFORMATION IN THIS THREAD

Put down the Stupid Street and do some research. "JDM" Silvia VLSD, "JDM" 180SX LSD, US-market Super-HICAS S13 VLSD, S14 VLSD are all the same. NA 300ZX VLSD is the same except it has 5-bolt output shafts instead of 6 (meaning either get 6-bolt output shafts or 5-bolt halfshafts), J30 is the same except the final drive ratio is 3.92:1 instead of the S-chassis' 4.08:1.

Kaaz makes both 2-way and 1.5-way clutch-type LSDs. 2-way is hardcore track diff, 1.5-way is great for street-driven cars that see lots of track time. 1.5-way is NOT only under acceleration, it just locks less under deceleration than a 2-way. acceleration-only diffs are 1-way (see: Fox-body Mustangs, other drag cars). VLSD works fine if the fluid is fresh, but isn't as quick to react as a clutch-type LSD. it is smoother, however.


a Quaife (helical or "TorSen" LSD) does not lock up, ever. it is a torque-biasing (or TORque SENsing) diff. gear type, it never locks up fully but can vary torque in an infinite number of percentage splits up to like 80/20 one side to the other. and THERE IS NO REACTION TIME. a Quaife diff doesn't "take longer to lock up" than ANYTHING. it is instantaneous. torque variation is a function of the loads on each output shaft and the angles of the splines on the worm gears and such. wheelspin does not actually have to occur for a Quaife/Torsen/S15 (helical) diff to transfer torque. it is not "2-way" or "1.5-way" or "36-way," it is a completely different mechanical concept than a clutch-type LSD.

 

I am sorry. I am actually offering advice from what I have and what my friends have.

You are wrong about the r200v differencials. I own a r200v from a 180sx. It has 5 bolt output shafts. I bought a rear subframe to secure the axles that matched up to these shafts. So they have 5 bolts. I can supply you pictures if you would like.

S14 rear ends and J30 rear ends have two studs unlike the S13 4 stud covers. I can give you pictures of these as well. My friend Paul installed a J30 rear in his S14 with no mods. Traded me the stock diff for a pair of cams and I gave it to another friend to install a deft force. The dude (Wen) that is installing the deft force needs to use his old cover because it has the 4 stud pattern.

I agree with most of the other points in your reply but I don't know what the gear ratios I am running seeing that I have never researched them.

I took a little offense to the incorrect jab but if I am wrong I am cool with being corrected.

 

Oh yeah I remember one thing Pete told me about his quaife.

If it has no torque to sense it will spin like an open diff. There is a trick to get it torque that is used by offroad guys when one wheel is stuck up in the air.

They apply emergency brake while hitting the gas to give the rear a sense of torque. Then the wheel that is actually touching the ground starts to move.

I hope you do not take offense to this or the other post. I am also not trying to show off or name drop. I would just like to say that I have some backing to my info.

Not just I heard from this guy from that site on this post that is no longer available.