Starting Problems & Alternator Removal
#1
Starting Problems & Alternator Removal
First, I have a starting problem. Last night, the car started, but a light buzzing noise was coming from the engine, at the same time, my oil light and battery light were flickering. Turned it off and restarted, this time no buzzing, but the engine cranked slower.
Well, went driving at night and stopped in San Francisco. As soon as I drove 5 minutes on city streets, all my lights started to dim and my radio shut off. Well, stopped at Costco, go a new battery, all is fine again.
Today, car started up....drove to lunch. Started again, but it cranked slowly. Got home, shut off motor and tried to restart. No luck, cranked slowly, but wouldn't turn over motor. Then everything died.
I assume it's my alternator. It's not charging the new battery. Is this correct? I did all the prep work to remove the alternator, but how does it come off the motor. The 2 bolts are off, but it doesn't come off. I can move it side to side. Do I have to hammer it out? Or did I forget to remove another bolt.
Well, went driving at night and stopped in San Francisco. As soon as I drove 5 minutes on city streets, all my lights started to dim and my radio shut off. Well, stopped at Costco, go a new battery, all is fine again.
Today, car started up....drove to lunch. Started again, but it cranked slowly. Got home, shut off motor and tried to restart. No luck, cranked slowly, but wouldn't turn over motor. Then everything died.
I assume it's my alternator. It's not charging the new battery. Is this correct? I did all the prep work to remove the alternator, but how does it come off the motor. The 2 bolts are off, but it doesn't come off. I can move it side to side. Do I have to hammer it out? Or did I forget to remove another bolt.
#3
dude, don't jump to conclusions.
run the car, and use a voltmeter. Without the car on, it should read 12.6-12.9, and with the car on it should read 13.5-13.8, if with the car on it isn't, then your alternator is bad.
Check your grounds, one could be rusted or gone loose, could be wasting $$ on new alternator and such.
Dr.
run the car, and use a voltmeter. Without the car on, it should read 12.6-12.9, and with the car on it should read 13.5-13.8, if with the car on it isn't, then your alternator is bad.
Check your grounds, one could be rusted or gone loose, could be wasting $$ on new alternator and such.
Dr.
#4
yea once I got mine home from the garage for the first time i went to crank it and it wouldnt even crank or turn over, the horn wouldnt honk or nothin so we thought it was a ignition relay or a bad ignitor we got a quote on one for $130 but before we bought it i checked the battery terminals and one clip was broke and rusted and fixed that for free just replaced it with another clip I had laying around and saved $130 so make sure thats your problem before spendin the $$
#6
Thanks for the help guys. But I checked everything, all else was alright. Changed the alternator and it solved everything.
Not going to complain too much, considering the alternator is the original and lasted 180K.
Not going to complain too much, considering the alternator is the original and lasted 180K.
#7
you could have gotten a sohc alternator at autozone that would have costed you less money and fit just the same. they also throw out the same volts . i did that and got my alt. for $117. tell anyone else who has alt. has altrnator problems.
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09-21-2005 07:21 PM