ideal powerband for drifting
#16
Well here is an older thread that describes more of the 248/248 setup........
http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...threadid=21681
http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...threadid=21681
Last edited by BigVinnie; 07-02-2005 at 09:40 PM.
#17
thanks vinnie. You seem to live in this forum... like me.
I've already searched and read that thread. I read alot of threads on how to install 2 ex cams.. I just haven't heard too much about how it actually effects the powerband except the previous statement regarding the loss in power somewhere in the low range. Thanks again tho for the good replies.
I've already searched and read that thread. I read alot of threads on how to install 2 ex cams.. I just haven't heard too much about how it actually effects the powerband except the previous statement regarding the loss in power somewhere in the low range. Thanks again tho for the good replies.
#18
Originally posted by KeN VeRsUs RyU
thanks vinnie. You seem to live in this forum... like me.
I've already searched and read that thread. I read alot of threads on how to install 2 ex cams.. I just haven't heard too much about how it actually effects the powerband except the previous statement regarding the loss in power somewhere in the low range. Thanks again tho for the good replies.
thanks vinnie. You seem to live in this forum... like me.
I've already searched and read that thread. I read alot of threads on how to install 2 ex cams.. I just haven't heard too much about how it actually effects the powerband except the previous statement regarding the loss in power somewhere in the low range. Thanks again tho for the good replies.
Only people that like short power bands, and allow the KA to go anemic at 5700RPM get smaller lobe exhaust cams. That is basic tuner knowledge...
Follow any performance cam spec, the objective is to have an equal balance of flow between INT/EXH, depending on the flow design of the head......
I dont just live in club240 I bounce around to NICO, and zilvia as well, but dealing with the hard headed ego's of those forums nothin ever gets done, it is much more counter productive.........
Last edited by BigVinnie; 07-03-2005 at 03:40 AM.
#19
Originally posted by BigVinnie
I dont just live in club240 I bounce around to NICO, and zilvia as well, but dealing with the hard headed ego's of those forums nothin ever gets done, it is much more counter productive.........
I dont just live in club240 I bounce around to NICO, and zilvia as well, but dealing with the hard headed ego's of those forums nothin ever gets done, it is much more counter productive.........
#20
well vinn, iKnow you know a heck of a lot more about engines than me and all, but i`ve seen dynos (i`ll hafta find them again) that show the 248/248 making less power than the s13 cams in an s14 DE motor. I remember this dyno didn`t tell whether or not the engine was stock otherwise, and i`m sure if it was, then adding i/h/e would seriously change things. I`m pretty sure it had at least i and e, though, what KA doesn`t nowadays?
anyway the dyno showed an average of 5 hp lost (across the board) up until the 5000 range where it peaked about 5 more than the s13 cams peaked at. It`s the belief of most KA tuners today that the 248/232 setup is the most beneficial to throttle response and overall balanced power, from idle to redline.
freshalloy would be a good place to look into things like this, it`s where iTend to find the answers to my rarest questions.
anyway the dyno showed an average of 5 hp lost (across the board) up until the 5000 range where it peaked about 5 more than the s13 cams peaked at. It`s the belief of most KA tuners today that the 248/232 setup is the most beneficial to throttle response and overall balanced power, from idle to redline.
freshalloy would be a good place to look into things like this, it`s where iTend to find the answers to my rarest questions.
#21
Originally posted by tryiian
well vinn, iKnow you know a heck of a lot more about engines than me and all, but i`ve seen dynos (i`ll hafta find them again) that show the 248/248 making less power than the s13 cams in an s14 DE motor. I remember this dyno didn`t tell whether or not the engine was stock otherwise, and i`m sure if it was, then adding i/h/e would seriously change things. I`m pretty sure it had at least i and e, though, what KA doesn`t nowadays?
anyway the dyno showed an average of 5 hp lost (across the board) up until the 5000 range where it peaked about 5 more than the s13 cams peaked at. It`s the belief of most KA tuners today that the 248/232 setup is the most beneficial to throttle response and overall balanced power, from idle to redline.
freshalloy would be a good place to look into things like this, it`s where iTend to find the answers to my rarest questions.
well vinn, iKnow you know a heck of a lot more about engines than me and all, but i`ve seen dynos (i`ll hafta find them again) that show the 248/248 making less power than the s13 cams in an s14 DE motor. I remember this dyno didn`t tell whether or not the engine was stock otherwise, and i`m sure if it was, then adding i/h/e would seriously change things. I`m pretty sure it had at least i and e, though, what KA doesn`t nowadays?
anyway the dyno showed an average of 5 hp lost (across the board) up until the 5000 range where it peaked about 5 more than the s13 cams peaked at. It`s the belief of most KA tuners today that the 248/232 setup is the most beneficial to throttle response and overall balanced power, from idle to redline.
freshalloy would be a good place to look into things like this, it`s where iTend to find the answers to my rarest questions.
Most tuners are simpletons and just run cams at there stock oem. If you look at the sheets and fresh alloy which I go to occassionally also, I've seen those results also............ There was NO tuning involved at all in that 248/248 cam setup.........
The 248/232 is infact a great set up at stock 20BTDC, I'm not complaining, I hate hearing half the truth or gossip which is what it is "get manipulated and chopped".
Last edited by BigVinnie; 07-07-2005 at 10:55 AM.
#23
Originally posted by tryiian
so you`re saying that if iGot some cam gears and learned a thing or two about proper timing, iCould be faster with a 248/248 setup than stock timing and 248/232?
so you`re saying that if iGot some cam gears and learned a thing or two about proper timing, iCould be faster with a 248/248 setup than stock timing and 248/232?
When you look at cam specs lobe and durations are nothing more but a time frame when a valve is to open and close in a stroke. Retarding a 248 would already build enough power for the compression stroke. That is all that time frame is needed for. Now take a 232 duration at stock BTDC all that does is hold in byproduct releasing less exhaust slower to produce power for the compression stroke.
Believe it or not within a fraction of a second the combustion chamber produces it's power after ignition. Shifting a cam a degree or 2 is playinging with that fraction of a second and where the power is to be produced.
Last edited by BigVinnie; 07-10-2005 at 09:06 AM.
#24
Originally posted by BigVinnie
Those specs are as if you set the cams at factory OEM, which it is not. I believe the exhaust cam for the intake side must be set 4 teeth counter clockwise over and advanced "counter clockwise" one degree from stock. The exhaust cam itself must be retarded 2 degrees back from the stock oem. Adjustable timing gears are needed, it just isn't your regular mod.
Most tuners are simpletons and just run cams at there stock oem. If you look at the sheets and fresh alloy which I go to occassionally also, I've seen those results also............ There was NO tuning involved at all in that 248/248 cam setup.........
The 248/232 is infact a great set up at stock 20BTDC, I'm not complaining, I hate hearing half the truth or gossip which is what it is "get manipulated and chopped".
Those specs are as if you set the cams at factory OEM, which it is not. I believe the exhaust cam for the intake side must be set 4 teeth counter clockwise over and advanced "counter clockwise" one degree from stock. The exhaust cam itself must be retarded 2 degrees back from the stock oem. Adjustable timing gears are needed, it just isn't your regular mod.
Most tuners are simpletons and just run cams at there stock oem. If you look at the sheets and fresh alloy which I go to occassionally also, I've seen those results also............ There was NO tuning involved at all in that 248/248 cam setup.........
The 248/232 is infact a great set up at stock 20BTDC, I'm not complaining, I hate hearing half the truth or gossip which is what it is "get manipulated and chopped".
#29
Originally posted by miked808
I know he was talking to me. I'm just curious to what you are running Vin thats all.
I know he was talking to me. I'm just curious to what you are running Vin thats all.
If you can relax for a while I should have some dyno results in once the whole exhaust system is complete.
That way people in the forums besides myself can compare the difference in power once I switch out the blocks with the forged internal kit, EMS, and fuel management.
I've been looking for a spare block for around $100 and I havent found one yet, but they are out there.
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