Well here is an older thread that describes more of the 248/248 setup........
http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...threadid=21681

 

thanks vinnie. You seem to live in this forum... like me.

I've already searched and read that thread. I read alot of threads on how to install 2 ex cams.. I just haven't heard too much about how it actually effects the powerband except the previous statement regarding the loss in power somewhere in the low range. Thanks again tho for the good replies.

 

As far as power band is concerned that is what you call a Top End Set up........ Increasing the flow on the exhaust cam instead of deminishing its lobe "which is what you were going to do" will solve the problem of the TORQUEY KA..... The KA due to bore and stroke already produces enough torque in it's crank and 2.4litres, that there is no reason to decrease the flow rate in the exhaust cam, plus like I said the flow rate is already controlled by the smaller porting on the exhaust side,"decreased CFM flow rate".....
Only people that like short power bands, and allow the KA to go anemic at 5700RPM get smaller lobe exhaust cams. That is basic tuner knowledge...
Follow any performance cam spec, the objective is to have an equal balance of flow between INT/EXH, depending on the flow design of the head......
I dont just live in club240 I bounce around to NICO, and zilvia as well, but dealing with the hard headed ego's of those forums nothin ever gets done, it is much more counter productive.........

 

i bounce around to the same sites and damn whats up with the ego's ? how do they even learn anything? OH i forgot they were born knowing everything about the 240sx ha! ha!

 

well vinn, iKnow you know a heck of a lot more about engines than me and all, but i`ve seen dynos (i`ll hafta find them again) that show the 248/248 making less power than the s13 cams in an s14 DE motor. I remember this dyno didn`t tell whether or not the engine was stock otherwise, and i`m sure if it was, then adding i/h/e would seriously change things. I`m pretty sure it had at least i and e, though, what KA doesn`t nowadays?

anyway the dyno showed an average of 5 hp lost (across the board) up until the 5000 range where it peaked about 5 more than the s13 cams peaked at. It`s the belief of most KA tuners today that the 248/232 setup is the most beneficial to throttle response and overall balanced power, from idle to redline.

freshalloy would be a good place to look into things like this, it`s where iTend to find the answers to my rarest questions.

 

Those specs are as if you set the cams at factory OEM, which it is not. I believe the exhaust cam for the intake side must be set 4 teeth counter clockwise over and advanced "counter clockwise" one degree from stock. The exhaust cam itself must be retarded 2 degrees back from the stock oem. Adjustable timing gears are needed, it just isn't your regular mod.
Most tuners are simpletons and just run cams at there stock oem. If you look at the sheets and fresh alloy which I go to occassionally also, I've seen those results also............ There was NO tuning involved at all in that 248/248 cam setup.........

The 248/232 is infact a great set up at stock 20BTDC, I'm not complaining, I hate hearing half the truth or gossip which is what it is "get manipulated and chopped".

 

so you`re saying that if iGot some cam gears and learned a thing or two about proper timing, iCould be faster with a 248/248 setup than stock timing and 248/232?

 

That is correct............. You are changing the rate of time when air is consumed, too when it is discharge "exhaust". When you change the rate of time the exhaust leaves "retarding" you are ADDING more power to the compression stroke atomizing fuel to air better. Compression is needed that atomizes air to fuel that generates the power to your engine.

When you look at cam specs lobe and durations are nothing more but a time frame when a valve is to open and close in a stroke. Retarding a 248 would already build enough power for the compression stroke. That is all that time frame is needed for. Now take a 232 duration at stock BTDC all that does is hold in byproduct releasing less exhaust slower to produce power for the compression stroke.
Believe it or not within a fraction of a second the combustion chamber produces it's power after ignition. Shifting a cam a degree or 2 is playinging with that fraction of a second and where the power is to be produced.

 

Vin you are doing it again. Stop talking about what cam is better when your'e still running stockers. If you knew what you were talking about why do you say Adjustable gears are needed. If you actually changed cams in the 240 before you would know thats not true. But hey you love to squeeze everybit of power out with your 2.5in exhaust and stock cat and stock cams. ****** punk.

 

personal attacks will only get this thread closed and will make this board feel like hondatech.com.

don't start with that crap.

 

Nuff Said. Point taken.

 

he was talking to you I didn't offend anyone and I'm not runnin stock cams.

 

I know he was talking to me. I'm just curious to what you are running Vin thats all.

 

well if you would like to know my buddy got me some billet non grounds, supposedly the "cam spec I have no clue what the lift or duration is" comes from a HKS cam from the CA18de, not T. Just the spec, not the cam.
If you can relax for a while I should have some dyno results in once the whole exhaust system is complete.
That way people in the forums besides myself can compare the difference in power once I switch out the blocks with the forged internal kit, EMS, and fuel management.
I've been looking for a spare block for around $100 and I havent found one yet, but they are out there.