Ixolas

Ok this is my first post hopefully you can shed some lite on me.
I am going to buy a stock ke24de from someone who is swaping to sr . I want to rebuild his old ka b4 i put it in my. This is what I am planning.

engine=$150? if i help him do the swap
1. Have the crankshaft bearing micropollished. No stroker kit, shorter rods are harder on the block aren't they? I don't know about balancing b/c i don't know costs.
2. 4340 chrome moly forged rods, stock length. Around $650 not sure on brand pauter machine, cunningham. any suggestions?
3. Supertech High-performance phospate coated forged alluminum pistons 3.524in bore with chrome moly wrist pins and gas nitrided rings. Thinking about a -22 dome to get an 8.5:1 ratio. $489 any others ?
4. Have .020 bore out and have pistons and crank fit into engine. ?$?
5. Metal head gasket .093 thickness? Is there much strength difference in thicknesses? around $100
6. Forged valves. ?$? around $300
7. High strength dual valve springs. ?$? around $350
8. Valve seat and polishing of combustion chamber. ?$?
9. Cam shaft. Not sure on what brand. I need to do more research on the specs. I would like something that really opens up the valves wide and holds them open longer than most or maybe even a custom job.
10. Port the intake as wide open as possible. Can I do this myself with my dremmill or do I need a professional to machine it?
11. Ensure proper timing

12. Race ricers for money letting them see my stock looking engine with no turbo or nos, then blowing them away.

as you can see I have found some general prices and do have items in mind but can't find all the manufactures names. If you have some brands of any parts listed or any suggestions on who to buy from I would really like that.
I am eventually going to put on a turbo and early nos, shuting off when turbo spools up, but those will be later on. I don't have that much experience on engineering the engine setup so as much help as possible will be greatly appreciated.
this is a link to me racing b4 i did any mods except rims and springs.->

http://www.okscca.org/6-8-2003/Grub...es/image174.htm

Ixolas

Oh ya the reason why I am buing his engine is b/c this engine build up is going to be done right and not rushed. My car is a daily driver and I can't go without, except for maybe a week.

hitokiri_808

you can up the engine compression ratio. i think a 11:1 would be good since your building up your whole engine. only downside is you gotta buy premium gas.

franman s13

if your not turboing then you wont have any power with low compression pistons. that set up without forced introduction would make less power than stock.

Ixolas

ok so I need high CR (CR=compression ratio) for an NA engine and low CR for a forced induction engine b/c the forced induction raises the final CR?
what about for only NOS does it need low or high compresion?

devnull

Balancing will either be done by the machine shop that bores your engine or the set of pistons and rods that you order will be already balanced.

Also, with an 11:1 CR I'm pretty sure you'll need racing fuel.

A port job should be done by a professional.

Ixolas

what about brands? Any suggestions on what brands to use and were to get them? Thanks

NismoKa

I worked on a couple cars with aluminum intake mani's and attacked them with a dremel. Haven't touched one from a 240sx though. However, cleaning up the intake and exhaust manifolds and gasket matching did improve overall accel and moreso top end. The first car we did for fun was a sprint. We had an extra intake mani and wanted to see what would happen. The car maxed out at 122km/h prior to the porting, afterwards we hit 138km/h on the same road. As for acceleration it did pick up faster, but it was still a slow 3 cylinder car. How much does it cost at a shop to get some nice port&polish work done?