I just got a 1990 240sx with a single cam 12valve. I was just wondering wut it would take to switch to the twin cam head. And what are the best cheap/easy mods for these motors?? What are the factory HP/Trq numbers ?

 

Umm I heard it's possble... might wanna search for that though... Umm, for mods... z32 fuel filter, ebay intake, custom exhaust, maybe a header..

89-90
KA24E
2.4L 140 hp I4
Horsepower 140 @ 5500 RPM
Torque (lb-ft) 155 @ 4000 RPM

91-98
KA24DE
Standard Engine 2.4L 155 hp I4
Horsepower 155 @ 5600 RPM
Torque (lb-ft) 156 @ 4400 RPM

 

the head swap is kinda tricky because the front covers are different. but it is the same block architecture so it is possible. if you search over on nico there are several write-ups about it.

cheap easy mods - fuel filter is way up there. no real power, just more filter material allowing potentially more flow. remove the aiv stuff (if your not in a strict visual emissions state). this has been known to get clogged and not function properly over time anyways. now thats its warming up find a lower opening thermostat. thereby allowing the motor to start cooling itself sooner this summer. get a cone filter and make sure you get the adaptor to fit it. elec fans can be found pretty cheap if you have patience. i highly recommend these so you can remove the clutch fan on the front of the motor.

 

would u mind throwing out a link for nico?

Im guessing AIV is the black hose that runs to a plastic box and then to the exhaust mani?? is that kinda like an egr?

i have an RE filter i wanted to put on.. but i can't find the adapter around here... i was going to make one today. would it be alright to move the AIT sensor (i think) to the intake piping instead of the side of the air box?

i was looking at that fan yesterday... i may chop up an electric fan from a junk car and stick in there... is the factory temp gauge fairly acurate??

 

there a really good post about tha aiv here that should tell you all about the aiv.

http://forums.********.com/

i'm not sure about the factory temp gauge, i picked up an adjustable trermoswitch that i coptrol the fans with.

 

Just to keep it simple all naps-z and ka heads are interchangeble from block to heads.
The only difficulty is the hours it takes to swap from SOHC to DOHC...
Most people would rather save there pennies for a full OBD1, or OBD2 240sx engine though.
Time is money to some people.......

 

so the ka-de is obd2?? is there any wiring/ecu difficulties?? would it even help any to put the dual cam head on the ka-d block??

from what i've seen, i like the single cam intake manifold better...(4 runners instead of 8 w/ butterflies) but the dual cam head seems like it would produce better top end

thanks alot

 

from my understanding.

S13 Ka24de is OBD1
S14 ka24de is OBD2

And you also need to change the power steering lines since the DOHC motor has the powersteering on the driverside instead of the passside.

 

mid 95 was the obd2 switch... some had obd2 others did not...

what i would suggest is that you get a dohc motor and swap it into the car... you will need all of the parts from the dohc motor... engine wiring harness and ecu as well as the body harness plug under the dash of the doner car... you will also need things like power steering lines ac lines if you want to use that stuff...

but befor you put the motor in take the pistons and rods out of the sohc motor and put them into the dohc motor... install new bearings and rings while you have them out... and then put the dohc motor back together... install a good metal head gasket...

that is the start to a higher hp motor... from there change out the fpr and get a good header and intake... that will be a start in the right direction... from there as funds allow you to upgrade more you can start adding things like bigger injectors aftermarket ecu bigger throttle body and a better mafs better cams and a hotter ignition system...

or the other route is to get a turbo manafold for 350 bucks and turbo you kae...the bottem end is good enough for 400 hp ... i have seen one kae here around knoxville running 9 psi on the street and 14 psi on the track and it has been running like this for a year that i know of... and the onlt addition to his car is a retuned ecu a greedy boost controller and a hacked mafs...he dials in 8.50 on the 1/8th mile track...

either way you choose to go the cost will in the end work out to be about the same... with the turbo motor you will have a lot more hp than with the dohc motor... but in cost it will be about the same hit to the pocket... the brake down that i have been able to come up with is like this...

sohc...
turbo manafold 350...
fpr 90...
fuel pump 150...
t3/t4 turbo 500 to 700 depending on where you get it...
fmic 400 to 700...
ic piping 100...
boost controller 100 to 180 depending...
waste gate 100 to 500 depending...
bov 150 to 400 depending...
ecu 500 to 650
down pipe 50... any muffler shop...
3 inch exhaust 500 to 700 depending...

dohc motor (using sohc pistons and rods)
complete motor 400 to 700 depending...
powersteering lines 50 to 200 depending...
ac lines 50 to 200 depending...
fpr 90...
fuel pump 150...
fuel injectors 300 to 500 depending...
bearings 100...
rings 80...
header 200 to 400 depending...
intake 100 to 300 depending...
ecu 600...
mafs 200...
cams 400 to 600 depending...
engine gasket set 140 to 200 depending...
ignition system 200 to 400 depending...
2.5 inch exhaust 500 to 700 depending...

all the places i have said a price with depending is how good you are at searching online for the best price possible... or how many of the parts you can get from a friend... i can get a lot of parts cheaper because of the discounts i get from work and people i know that have connections... so my price will not be the same price you can get on stuff... this is just a basic list of prices that i have found on the net... i dont want to get into i can get this or that cheaper cus i know if you look hard enough you will be able to do that...

this is just for an idea of what you will spend to get a certain outcome... i did not include any machine work because that is up to the person doing the work... if i were going to build either one of these motors i would do quite a lot of machine work on the head and block...

like i said this is just a starting line of information for people who are wanting to do something to the motor in their car...

 

We diddnt swap the lines from single to duall and it still works..

 

you can do it if you bend the lines yes... i worry about kinking the line or cracking it when getting it straight... i figure if you have the motor out of a donor car why not get all the parts that SHOULD be used to make it right... i mean you have to dig out the wiring harness an way... why not get all the lines while you are at it???

 

i dont remember what we did.. but we diddnt bend it.. cause when i flipped my car i wisted the lower control arms and snapped the rack.. along with the lines..