Now I know there are alot of ppl out there looking to get the most bang for there buck, so I figured I'd start by putting up the BPU I/H/E Guide for all of those budget ppl. Some of you may think im just cluttering the Forum with useless crap, well because Im pretty sure there are quite a few ppl that would appreciate something like this include myself so.........

Intake:
eBay Intake Pipping and MAF Adpt. (This is one of those very rare times I myself would use something made from eBay, but I have first hand exp. with them and they are pretty decent for there cost, there pretty identical to any other name brand intake besides the colors, filters, and no C.A.R.B sticker.)
**NOTE: Make sure you get the Pipping/Intake kit Specified for your Chassis, as I am not sure the Bends or Vacuum nipples are the same.

eBay Intake Pipping and MAF Adpt.: $15 to $25
Can be found Here

After seeing This Intake Filter Shootout, I've decided to Couple an Apexi Univ. Power Filter to the eBay intake. ALL MAF Adpt. are 3" or 76mm.

Apex'I 75mm Power Filter: $72
Can be found Here

K&N 3" Cone filter: $38
Can be found Here

Fujita 3" Filter (Similar Design to Apex'I): $44
Can be found Here

For those of you not diggin the eBay kits, well I got you covered

AEM: $150 - $154
S13 (DE) - S14

Injen: ~$200
S13 (E) - S13 (DE) - S14 (Z) - S14 (K)

Intake Thermal gasket: Tests have shown ~ 3-4hp increase after long term engine running.
Circuit Sports: $30
DE Only

Header:
Now I am pretty sure that all DOHC Headers are the same, Though I know that OBD-2 has a 2nd o2 sensor right before the the cat on the header. But if anything you can always cap the hole w/ something.

OBX: ~$165
Can be found at Sparktec Motorsports
eBay store link can be found Here
or there real site:
S13 (DE) - S14

JDM Car Boy: They seem to be reputable in the honda scene so why not give it a try?
S14 Only

S&S Header of AZ: $284
S14 Only

DC Sports: $341 - $333
S13 - S14

Test Pipes:
**NOTE: Most Test pipes have the OBD-2 2nd o2 Sensor Hole, but the pipe should also come with a bolt to cap it off, if not you will need to get something to seal the hole.

eBay: $5 - $50
Can be found Here

Advan-Emotion: $25
Can be found Here

Exhaust:
Limited to under $450 due to large selection

5Zigen Rocket 200: $415
S13 Only

Advanced JDM Parts: $138 - $173
S13: 1 2 3
S14: 1 2

Apexi GT Spec: $406
S14 Only

Apexi Nior: $447
S14 Only

Apex'I N1 Evolution: $435 - $450
S13 - S14

Apex'I Megaphone: $400 - $419
S13 - S14

Blitz NUR-Spec: (Rear Section/Muffler - **NOT CAT-BACK**) $374
S14 Only

Buddy Club Spec II: $332
S13 - S14

CXRacing: $200
S13 Only

Espelir JGT500: $440
S14 Only

GP Sports EXAS Spec D: $350
S13 - S14

GP Sports G-Four D II: $440
S13 - S14

Greddy PE II: $448
S13 Only

Greddy Ti-C: $448
S14 Only: Link 1 & 2

HKS Hi-Power: $371 - $449
S13 & S14 Both 65mm and 85mm

Hop-Up Racing 3": $265 - 279
S13 - S14

Intense Power: $295
S13 - S14

JIC Bullet 505S SUS (60mm): $450
S13 - S14

JVT-R: $399
S13 Only

Pacesetter Monza: $280
S13 Only

Pit N1 Style: $370
S13 - S14

Skunk2: $430
S13 Link 1 & 2 - S14 Link: 1 & 2

Tanabe Super Medallion Racing: $418 - $443
S13 - S14

Top Speed N1: $320
S13 - S14


Updated: 4/17

*NOTE: All links that lead to GripMotorsports are not broken, the page url uses "~" which do not show up when you click on the link, just go and search for the product, it's there.

 

MAF Upgrade:
So from N/A builds I have seen, using an N60(Maxima) or N62(300ZX) MAF Shifts your Peak HP up a little. A set-up I know running an N60 MAF Shifted his Peak from 5.8k to 6.5k and also gain. Though I would Highly recommend the N60 MAF because the N62 MAF's usually run from $100+, but the N60's can be had From $30+. But there is no Gain from the 62 or 60 cause you will never reach the limits of the N60 on an N/A. Another plus from upgrading your MAF is that the stock MAF on the OBD1 KA's (including E) are around 60mm, OBD2 MAF have an 70mm Dia. If you read my Intake Manifold thread, the ideal intake dia. is 25% more cross-sectional area then the TB which in our case is an 60mm, 25% is 76mm. Both the N60 & N62 MAF's are 80mm's in dia. I would suggest you get a custom bent/fitted 3" intake pipe to take advantage of increased dia. = more flow.

N60 MAF (eBay): Starting from $30


Cams:
Swapping bigger cams for a smaller one is another way to gain more power. But Bigger (Duration/Lift) isn't always better. Wait!!!! Before I go any further I would like to get something straight here. ALL S13 KA24DE's cam with Int./Exh. Cam Profiles of 240/248, ALL S14 KA24DE's cam with 232/232 Cam Profiles. Now, if you want to know how the S14 makes nearly the same power, not exactly, as the S13. Pls PM so I can explain to you why. Moving along Now many of us have heard of the Infamous 248 Exhaust cam on the Intake side and Rotating 4 Teeth CCW and what not. Let me say right now. It's not as good as you think! The 248 cam shifts the Power band too Higher for the KA to reach while you may gain some top-end with this cam, tremendous loss has been noticed down low. The 248 CAM doesn't make the kind of power that it should because when it is advanced 4 teeth from it's exhaust placement the CAM on INT is slightly advanced 1.2 degrees from where the stock 240 cam is placed. This causes it to lack in power as to where the 240 cam makes power as it has increased velocity to the placement of the piston in the downward stroke.This is a simple correction using a adjustable timing sprocket and adding a 2 degree retard to teh 248 which will increase intake velocity. This maybe a good cam for those who have upgraded Valvetrain's but this is for the budget guys so were assuming a near stock motor. Now this upgrade is aimed mainly torwards the S14 KA guys. Because they have the Small, but very Trqy 232/232 cam set-up, is starves a bit on the top-end. But swaping out the 240/248 cams from the S13's can improve the top-end to a peak that the KA can still reach, but still having great low end. Now for those looking for the best low-end trq. possible, the 232/232 cam set-up is what you want. The S14 Cams can be thrown in the S13 for this. With that said and done.

**If there needs to be more Explanation or your confused, either post a reply or PM me

240/248 Cam Set-up (eBay): Starting from $xx
232/232 Cam Set-up: Depends if the S14 guy wants more top end, while you want more low

Cam Gears:
Advancing and Retarding timing and increase both Hp and Trq.

DIY Adj. Cam Gears: $ - Depends if your willing to do it yourself or have a shop drill it


Fuel/Ign. Adj.: (Apexi S-AFC Neo)
There's nothing like fine tuning your Fuel and Ign. maps for optimal power. Not only that but if your gonna run the N60 or N62 MAF, you are going to need to run this as the Stock ECU will not read the New MAF correctly.
Hotwires settings that I know of:
N60 4 IN / 5 OUT(Have seen 2 IN / 5 OUT being used also)
N62 2 IN / 5 Out

Apexi S-AFC Neo: $280


Intake Manifold Upgrade: S13's only
As I mentioned earlier the S13's ran a cam set-up of 240/248. To keep the low-end trq. strong SCV's were added to increase low-end air velocity. but this can also rob you of your top-end. These can be taken out. But theres a rod that runs throught the intake mani that these SCV's pivot on and that will leave holes in the intake runners. The holes and be sealed in any way logical.

Removing S13 SCV: $Depends on the cost of your method of sealing the holes
2nd Opt (Swap for an S14 Mani: $Depends if the guys doing a swap or what


So Now you got I/H/E, Cams, Gears, MAF, and PiggyBack Tuning/S-AFC Neo

 

Alt. Upgrade:
Most of us have either added a bunch of Electrical accessories, such as gauges, full stereo systems and what not. But chances are, you didnt upgrade your stock alt. to support this extra electrical drain. But luckily, there is a cheap and easy solution to this. It involves the 1gen Nissan Quest(93-98). These Vans were equipped with an VG30E and an 110 amp alt. that w/ only minor mods, can be fitted to an KA. This mod fits both KA24E and KA24DE.
Link to the installation

1G Nissan Quest Alt.: $Depends on where you get them from, usually costing $25 less then an KA alt.


Grounding Upgrade:
I did not believe in this mod at first, I actually thought it was one of those rip off mods that look pretty. Boy was I wrong lol. Looking at these dyno comparisons I have found including the: Hyper Ground System Link 1, Hyper Ground System Link 2, and Tuner Transformation Ground Kit. Both kits showed gains across the entire power band. Other benefits include; Stabilized idling, Increase in MPG, Throttle Response, and Low-Mid Range Trq. This is pretty amazing considering that these kits and be replicated/DIY for under $50.
You can make your own grounding cables with an DIY from here.

Grounding System: Depends on if you do your own > $60, or buy a kit which is normally $80 +


MSD Ignition Coil: (Only On OBD1 KA24DE's, Possibly E)
I'm pretty sure we all know what this does, Improves spark out put. In return = better MPG, Cleaner emissions and more complete combustion.
DIY Install Guide

MSD Blaster Coils: From $38+


Spark Plug Wires:
Upgrading to low Resistance spark plug wires will deliver more electrical current to the plugs. Thus resulting in a hotter spark, which in return normally means a cleaner more complete combustion.

Magnecor 8.5mm Wires: $95

Taylor 8.2mm Wires: $65


Upgrading Spark Plugs:
Well, do I really need to explain?

Plugs can range from: $30+

The only real upgrades in this thing was the Alt. and Grounding kit, but added the Wires and Plugs so it would make this longer, also cause I found cheap prices on the wires

 

dude...im not NA or in a S14..but, this is a good thread man

im sure this helps alot of people...good work bro

 

boooooooooo this is all for the de.

 

What's the difference between s13 and s14 intakes? I might as well just buy that cheap aem one for s14 and fit it

 

^no difference i run one vac fittings are same etc..

 

S13 and S14 MAF's are diffrent, S13's had a G60 (60mm) MAF and the S14's had an G70 (70mm) MAF


Btw thanx for the props
I figured I'd help the guys like me since I had a hard time managing my budget and stuff so...

 

Ahhh, thanks dude. I'm just a bit lazy to piece it together, haha. So does it sorta fit? Not at all? g3bio?

 

It will fit, though IDK about when the pipe hits the MAF, IDK what happens there, you'll have to see

But I wanna say it does

 

You should also add a modified catch can system. Routing the catch can inline through the bottom of the engine block, and run the catch can outline into the intake system. This will overall reduce bottom end pressure and windage, will probably make a 5 to 6WHP gain, on any engine. Also the addition of a crank scraper and windage tray..
Thread stickied..

 

Edited, LMK if I missed anything

 

Updated I/H/E Section w/ new Links due to problems w/ iStore, also adding a bigger selection

 

Updated once again and added a lot more stuff and organized it better

 

My first post YAY!!!! Nice write up and love how you have links w/ prices etc. My question is what products in your opinion give the best HP?
Thanks