kerv

Anyone else have this problem? My brake lights work fine when my hatch is open, but as soon as it is closed and I press the brake the fuse goes on me. I have tried looking for shorts and havn't found anything yet. I also tried taping with electrical tape all the metal contacts the hatch makes with the car when it is closed. Still no luck. I have followed the wires back everywhere and everything looks like it has never been moved and everything is soo clean that I don't know what could be shorting.

I know all my lights work as I can see them all light up for a second before the fuse blows.

I think I am going to run to Radio Shack and pick up a self resetting fuse circuit breaker to help me not waste tons of fuses.

Has anyone else had a similar problem and might be able to direct me in a place to look? Thanks,

- Kev

Import Fanatix

I deal with stero systems a lot and when that happens, there is definitely some metal to metal contact happening. maybe the trunk is somehow moving something when closing and then touching the wire that's shorting it out. u definitely have to take the back panel out and take a look at all the wires. Check the ground if the lights have one and make sure all the wires don't rouch each other or that they all have tape or a covering over every wire.

BTW, you can also just put a wire between the two sides in the fuse block. Not the right thing to do, but the only thing to do if you don't want to spend any more $$. But check the wiring, something is touching when its closed.

rudeboy

TRU INDEED

sinewave

Does your hatch have the 3rd brake light in it. If it does, I'll bet you have wires that run from the light to a transition point near the hatchback hinges.

I think Import Fanatix is on the right track in saying that you should look for a short where the wires flex. However, I completely disagree with his recommendation of jumpering out the fuse. THIS IS HOW CAR FIRES ARE STARTED - DON'T DO IT! Find and fix the problem, don't delete the circuit protection.

Statik

I agree, It's probably in a flexing point somewhere and disable the fuse. THink about it the fuse was made to be the weakest link in the case of something going wrong. If you bypass it its going to find the next weakest spot to blow, Which would probably be the bulbs. Now decide whats cheaper fuses or all the bulbs you'll need to change out.

Statik

sinewave

Actually, the fuse is sized to protect the wire and other components of the circuit. Under normal operating conditions, the resistance of the load on the circuit is what determinse how much current flows through a circuit.

Typically, lights, solenoids, etc. have a lot of resistance. Hypothetically, lets say that the brake light circuit draws about 8 amps. The Nissan engineers run #16 wire because it can handle 12 amps at 75 degrees C. Anything more than 12 amps and the insulation starts to melt. The engineers then install a 10 amp fuse. So now you have your wire protected and you won't blow the fuse with the lighting load.

Now, if you get a short circuit (like a bare wire touching the chassis) you bypass the load (lights) which means you are also bypassing most of the resistance in the circuit. Suddenly, your circuit is drawing 75 amps (hypothetically). Your fuse blows instantly IF YOU HAVE NOT BYPASSED IT WITH A PIECE OF WIRE. If you have, you will flow 75 amps through a 12 amp rated wire (not to mention your switches and fuse box). Since the components on the circuit were not designed to handle the extra current, something will burn. What burns first, and how quickly it goes is always open to debate, but I assure you something will burn.