Sea Foam Wonders
#48
DO NOT FOLLOW CRANKCASE PROCEDURE stated on FIRST page. that is teriible on your motor. For the crankase(IF YOU DO IT) you should follow the directions.... DO NOT DRIVE IT. And you MUST change your oil right afterwards.
ALSO-Be carefull if you have a SEVERLY sludged engine. SOmetimes if your engine is full of sludge in the crankcase, the cleaner will nock it all off, and it will plug your oilpump.... Then.....BOOM. I know because i just did it to my current zenki.... When i removed the valve cover, i noticed black crap EVERYWHERE, stuck to everything(sludge and buildup)... So smart me decided to use a crankcase cleaner(not seafoam, but i'm sure the same thing would have happened). I ran it exactly as directed....... two weeks later i see a check oil light on starting my car... I emediatly turn engine off..... With further investigation, my oil pump was totally clogged with debri........Then later the same week..........knock knock...who's there? a ROD KNOCK. DAMN. now i'm in the process of swapping another ka!!!
NOt to make anyone paranoid, but just be carefull if your engine has tons of sludge in it.
and second....DO NOT DRIVE WITH the crankcase cleaner in your car!!!
Third- SEA FOAM IS AWESOME for the intake mani/gas tank. I've used it on many cars, and it works wonders.
ALSO-Be carefull if you have a SEVERLY sludged engine. SOmetimes if your engine is full of sludge in the crankcase, the cleaner will nock it all off, and it will plug your oilpump.... Then.....BOOM. I know because i just did it to my current zenki.... When i removed the valve cover, i noticed black crap EVERYWHERE, stuck to everything(sludge and buildup)... So smart me decided to use a crankcase cleaner(not seafoam, but i'm sure the same thing would have happened). I ran it exactly as directed....... two weeks later i see a check oil light on starting my car... I emediatly turn engine off..... With further investigation, my oil pump was totally clogged with debri........Then later the same week..........knock knock...who's there? a ROD KNOCK. DAMN. now i'm in the process of swapping another ka!!!
NOt to make anyone paranoid, but just be carefull if your engine has tons of sludge in it.
and second....DO NOT DRIVE WITH the crankcase cleaner in your car!!!
Third- SEA FOAM IS AWESOME for the intake mani/gas tank. I've used it on many cars, and it works wonders.
#49
Seafoam has always made me nervous. The oil leaks etc just sound like a pain in the ***. So I can do the intake, and the gas tank while running the car. But when pouring into the actual crank case - I should just do it at home and idle it?
#50
just used seafoam in my crank, vacuum hose, and gas tank. didnt smoke till i took it to 3500rpm. it was alot but only white. didnt have much left for the gas tank so im prolly gonna go buy another. whatever good or bad comes of seafoam ill be sure and let yall know how it affected my car. (btw- 128k mi and a leaky head gasket, was hittin lik 250 on a tank before E but we'll see how it goes now)
#51
For those who can't find Seafoam, you can get a similar top-end cleaner from any GM or Mazda dealer. Both are mostly kerosene. It's actually an evolution of an old-school hot rodder trick using automatic transmission fluid.
The idea is to slowly introduce a light solvent into the engine while it's running, then shut it off and let it sit for a while to dissolve carbon build up on the backs of the intake valves, the piston tops, and the combustion chambers. ATF will work for this, just not as well as a purpose-blended fluid.
Yes, you have to be careful not to hydro-lock the engine. Although the fluid is combustible, your engine can't burn a chamber full of fluid, and I guarantee that if you get 56cc's of juice into a cylinder with 55cc's minimum volume, something will break. S L O W L Y let the engine vacuum at idle draw the fluid in and you won't have a problem. Pouring it into a glass (not clear plastic, since it may dissolve it) container first lets you keep an eye on how fast it's being drawn in.
As an aside, I used to work for NOS Automotive Chemicals, and most octane boosters and fuel injector cleaner additives that you pour into the tank use a lot of kerosene in the formula to help dissolve deposits in the fuel system and combustion chambers.
The idea is to slowly introduce a light solvent into the engine while it's running, then shut it off and let it sit for a while to dissolve carbon build up on the backs of the intake valves, the piston tops, and the combustion chambers. ATF will work for this, just not as well as a purpose-blended fluid.
Yes, you have to be careful not to hydro-lock the engine. Although the fluid is combustible, your engine can't burn a chamber full of fluid, and I guarantee that if you get 56cc's of juice into a cylinder with 55cc's minimum volume, something will break. S L O W L Y let the engine vacuum at idle draw the fluid in and you won't have a problem. Pouring it into a glass (not clear plastic, since it may dissolve it) container first lets you keep an eye on how fast it's being drawn in.
As an aside, I used to work for NOS Automotive Chemicals, and most octane boosters and fuel injector cleaner additives that you pour into the tank use a lot of kerosene in the formula to help dissolve deposits in the fuel system and combustion chambers.
#54
yeah, like my car wanted to stall for like 2 seconds after it started up, but kept running. Mabey she's strong
*edit* i deffinatly got it in the right holes
*edit* i deffinatly got it in the right holes
Last edited by Atown 240; 08-15-2005 at 11:04 PM.
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