Doing brakes.. HELP! Few quick questions.(i have 300zx breaks)
#1
Doing brakes.. HELP! Few quick questions.(i have 300zx breaks)
1996 Nissan 240sx 5spd. NON ABS
Alright guys, My car came with the 4 piston, alluminum 300zx tt brakes.
The rotors are warped, so i'm replacing the rotors AND pads tommorow. There are a total of 6 bolts on the back of the calipers. TWO large ones that hold the caliper to the car, and the other 4 are ON the caliper. Two on the top side, and two on the bottom side.
Should i just remove the two large(17mm i believe) bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the control arm, or should i also remove the 4 smaller bolts?
Also, do these cars, or the 300z's come with braided brake lines?? My FRONT brakes have stainless braided lines, but there is no name on the lines. The guy also gave me brand new goodyear braided brake lines. I'm wondering if it would be worth it to replace the current ones with the new goodyears, or if they are already aftermarket.
THANKS A LOT FOR ANY HELP/Suggestions to make this brake change easy.
thanks!!!
Alright guys, My car came with the 4 piston, alluminum 300zx tt brakes.
The rotors are warped, so i'm replacing the rotors AND pads tommorow. There are a total of 6 bolts on the back of the calipers. TWO large ones that hold the caliper to the car, and the other 4 are ON the caliper. Two on the top side, and two on the bottom side.
Should i just remove the two large(17mm i believe) bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the control arm, or should i also remove the 4 smaller bolts?
Also, do these cars, or the 300z's come with braided brake lines?? My FRONT brakes have stainless braided lines, but there is no name on the lines. The guy also gave me brand new goodyear braided brake lines. I'm wondering if it would be worth it to replace the current ones with the new goodyears, or if they are already aftermarket.
THANKS A LOT FOR ANY HELP/Suggestions to make this brake change easy.
thanks!!!
#2
hey i recently got my 240 (oct.) and the first thing i did was the brake upgrade. If the car already has the 300zx brakes on it that means it already has the conversion lines because you can only get them to work with those special lines. so unless those lines are conversion lines i wouldn't change them. oh and just unbolt the two big bolts that bolt the caliper to the control arm your not doing a rebuild. the 4 small bolts are to open up the actual caliper.
Last edited by bcvjj21; 12-30-2004 at 08:49 PM.
#3
WOW. I'm glad i read this first!!! I was going strait for the 4 bolts!!!!
OK. So the two large ones will remove the entire caliper, and allow me to remove the rotor. CORRECT????
So i know how to replace the rotor now, what is the easiest way to replace the pads at the same time as the rotor? Did you use a shim kit, or just a bare pad?
Thanks SOOOOOOOO much for your reply!
Oh yeah. So you can't use stock 300zx lines with the swap? Are there specific "conversion" lines? If so, that might explain the stainless lines huh?
Thanks!
OK. So the two large ones will remove the entire caliper, and allow me to remove the rotor. CORRECT????
So i know how to replace the rotor now, what is the easiest way to replace the pads at the same time as the rotor? Did you use a shim kit, or just a bare pad?
Thanks SOOOOOOOO much for your reply!
Oh yeah. So you can't use stock 300zx lines with the swap? Are there specific "conversion" lines? If so, that might explain the stainless lines huh?
Thanks!
#4
there should be 2 pins in each caliper that hold the pads in with a spring type thing on the top... if the kit came with shims then yes use them... helps eliminate brake squeel as well as take up any slack that would allow the pad to move back and forth... as far as brake lines go yes they are special lines just for the conversion...
pop out the pins holding the pads into the calipers and pull them out... when doing abrake job without replacing the rotors there is no need to remove the whole caliper just pull the pins and take the pads out of the top... easy as that... make sure you put the spring plate back in right so the pads stay secure...
pop out the pins holding the pads into the calipers and pull them out... when doing abrake job without replacing the rotors there is no need to remove the whole caliper just pull the pins and take the pads out of the top... easy as that... make sure you put the spring plate back in right so the pads stay secure...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post