Engine Swaps Discussion about motor swaps ONLY.

sr20 isnt idleing or repond right

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Old 07-22-2006 | 06:25 PM
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sr20 isnt reponding right

UPDATE::
ok well, now after some diagnostics, the car idles fine. And all the hose is connected. and it is responsive when it is just started but after 5 min of idling or running, the car isnt reponsive anymore. Meaning even with full throttle, the engine just rev and dont rev(900 rpm to 1800 rpm and no higher). I checked all of the sensor and tried plugging it and unplugging it, I couldnt find any malfunctioning sensor. Also there are no check engine light. The car runs fine first 5 min then wont rev up more than 1700rpm. I thought it was MAF problem but sensor was fine. I am running out of ideas, please let me know if anyone has other suggestion.


FIRST POST::
the sr20 wont idle right for first 30sec but when I rev it couple times it idles fine. Then when i rev up after 5 min of idling, it wont rev right. Even with full throttle it just wont rev collectly and rev, no rev, rev, no rev, over and over with full throttle. here is the pic of my car. Is my vaccum line on wrong position? Since id otn have boost control, the hose that comes from wastegate is open (I closed with golf tee but it ran worse.) also one of the big hose that come from intake manifold is connected to Greddy Intercooler piping.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/ya
mifumi/DSC01648.jpg[/IMG]

Last edited by nismoman; 07-23-2006 at 07:00 PM.
Old 07-23-2006 | 11:20 AM
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LMAO. But seriously man, do you think anyone can tell if your vaccum lines are hooked up with no imperfections from a picture like that???

Here. If you suspect its a vaccum leak sray down vacuum spots with brake cleaner. you'll hear the car idle diffrent if the brake cleaner enters the vacuum track.

Also, have you heard of a chilton or haynes manual? it tells you how to test your sensors that make your car idle and drive correctly. Maf iacv you know? You dont need us man get to checker or napa. goood luck
Old 07-23-2006 | 05:24 PM
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yea its kind of hard to diagnose a problem from a pic. The hose shouldnt open, im not sure what it connects to though because i have a boost controller. Definately sounds like a boost/vaccuum leak. Did this problem just arise or has it been like this since the swap or what? Give us more details, also a boost leak tester could definately help you out, only a few dollars to build too.
Old 07-23-2006 | 06:58 PM
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ok well, now after some diagnostics, the car idles fine. And all the hose is connected. and it is responsive when it is just started but after 5 min of idling or running, the car isnt reponsive anymore. Meaning even with full throttle, the engine just rev and dont rev(900 rpm to 1800 rpm and no higher). I checked all of the sensor and tried plugging it and unplugging it, I couldnt find any malfunctioning sensor. Also there are no check engine light. The car runs fine first 5 min then wont rev up more than 1700rpm. I thought it was MAF problem but sensor was fine. I am running out of ideas, please let me know if anyone has other suggestion.
Old 07-23-2006 | 07:40 PM
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check the ecu for codes, really sounds like a bad maf, check the voltage on it or try swapping with a buddys or something. Unplug the maf and see if it rev past 1800. Also could be something with a temp sensor being that it seems to do it when the car is warmed up..
Old 07-23-2006 | 09:40 PM
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I agree ^^^. let us know what the voltage is on the MAF and Temp sensor. Also the Throttle position sensor.
Old 07-24-2006 | 08:48 PM
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SOMETHING I FOUND TODAY:

When I turn on the key, the fuel pump should turn on and turn off in 5 seconds (usually thats the case for engine) but it is always on. also when I turn on the engine and when it is warmed up, the fuel injector should have consistent clicking noise but it isnt. Fuel Pump and Fuel injector is controled by ECU so is possible that ECU is ****ed??
Old 07-24-2006 | 08:57 PM
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sounds like your water temp sensor might be ****ing up too
Old 07-28-2006 | 11:26 PM
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you did check/set your timing right??
i had all the same ****, and it was because the timing was way off
Old 07-30-2006 | 01:05 PM
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i set the timing right to 15deg (the marking that is 2nd one from the right). Let me know if yo have any other suggestion. Thnx
Old 07-30-2006 | 04:10 PM
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believe timing should be more like 17, but either way that wouldnt make your car do what its doing...hmmm
Old 07-30-2006 | 05:03 PM
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I also put new MAF sensor from KA24DE engine to see if my MAF was bad. It start to idel alot better than SR20 MAF but after a while it does the samething.
Old 07-30-2006 | 06:37 PM
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its still not revving above 1800 rpms?? if not have you triend looking for a boost leak??i know first hand when an intercooler is busted or its blowing off pipes it will not run correctly unless you relocate the MAF and then its a de vs. det and you cant get on it or you will overspin the turbo.... any who off topic it sounds like a boost leak to me.. just my 2 cents
Old 07-30-2006 | 08:45 PM
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I have brand new intercooler. But I dont have boost solenoid or boost pressure sensor so the hose connected to stock westgate is connected with BOV hose with T-connection. I am running Blitz DD BOV. Also, any one know how to check for leak?

Last edited by nismoman; 07-30-2006 at 10:39 PM.
Old 07-30-2006 | 11:26 PM
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Originally posted by motegineon
believe timing should be more like 17, but either way that wouldnt make your car do what its doing...hmmm
factory spec is 15* +/-2*



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