The turbo's outlet was 2" so that's why I stayed with 2", keep the velocity up for decent spool, as this is going to be a daily driven street car.

 

I got the upper charge pipe made, it's quite a piece of work, up thru the battery mount, under the upper rad hose and between the radiator and engine, then up into the TB replacing the cast aluminum unit. Just realized my Blitz BOV has a aluminum flange adapter tho, and that's not going to weld to my steel charge pipes to good-

 

once again-clean your charge pipes-this was a new clean rag before I pulled it thru one section of my intercooler piping

 

Charge pipes are in place to stay this time. I ended up welding a fitting to the charge pipe, and using a short piece of hose to mount the Blitz SS BOV. I also heat wrapped the pipe near the exhaust side of the engine to help keep the heat down. I'm not going to be re-circulating the BOV I don't know if this will cause problems or not. The stock unit vented into the turbo's inlet after the MAFS, so I don't know why it would cause any problems. It should make it smoother because the turbo doesn't have to swallow a big burp of BOV boost when I shift. Now it's down to the million small things left to do:

Mount Wastegate Actuator
Make Upper Mounting Tabs for Radiator
Trim and Fit Heater Hoses
Install Driveline
Install Electric Fans
Wiring-Yes wiring is a small thing on this swap
Fluids Up

Cross fingers and see what happens

 

That's one long *** pipe. Good to see it's coming along.

 

I didn't really like the pipe but theres not really a better way without swapping the intake. The guy at the exhaust shop did a nice job bending it and kept it one piece amazingly!

 

You driving this thing yet?

 

Not yet, got the heater hoses done and throttle bracket made tho.

Note that the heater hoses on the RB20 are the same size and same side as the KA, so you'll only need to trim them slightly and rotate them where they attach to the engine to make them fit.

 

Got the 3" downpipe fully welded. The pipe required using qty 1 3" mandrel U bend. The stock RB downpipe has a nice threaded fitting that the 02 sensor threads into, then it threads into the casting. I removed the fitting and welded it into the custom downpipe. I also made the downpipe longer and eliminated an un-needed item The turbo outlet is about 2-1/4", but the 3" is supposed to be better because it allows the gasses to expand into the larger pipe and free up the turbo more.

 

I have throttle brackets made and they work great I have about 10 of them if anybody wants them. gimme $5 and $5 shipping (mostly for the hassle of running them to the post office and wasting gas)
I have a pic if one on my car and a new one if you want, email at: iroc_07@yahoo.com
I will put this in the classifieds too, I just thought it was relavent here also.

 

Rad hoses are on and coolant/oil is in. Used Mobil-1 0w40 full sythetic and that orange prestone antifreeze. Tomorrow I'll be fabing up the bracket for the wastegate actuator and then it's fire-up time! Only one of the fans I have would fit, so I hope it's enough cooling. It's an electric fan I got from a honda front clip I gutted

 

Wiring is done, still have the wastegate actuator bracket to make. Getting closer-down to hours until start up..........

 

damn, i just read this whole thread, this sounds like an aweseome swap, recently ive been reading into these rb swaps into 240s since im reall really tired of my civic, whould u suggest the rb25 or the rb20 for a 16 year old, who does have alot of practice with rebuilding hondas and alot of friends who kno alot about f/i and racing?

 

How much money are you willing to spend import?

 

EDIT on the RB20 wiring, make sure you use the two green relays that plug into the RB engine harness near the ECU or your swap will not run! One of our local customers I "converted" from SR had a bad time getting his to run and was embarrassed when I plugged the relays in and it fired right up. BTW The stock RB20 will bolt up, even the downpipe clears the steering shaft.