Inspecting Air Regulator:

Static characteristic inspection
-Visually inspect the shutteropening degree.
Temperature range (in Celsius)
Below -20C: Fully open
20C: Half open
Over 60C: Fully Closed

Dynamic Characteristic inspection
- Check the change in shutter opening degree when the terminals are energized with the battery. The shutter should open gradually within 7 minutes (surrounding area temperate at approx 20C).
(Reference)
Heater resistance value(Ohms): 70~80 at 20C
- If NG replace Air Regulator

 

my swap seems to idle high too maybe part of the problem? I'm still working with this turbo but I will get to the 02 thing next.

 

I tested my computer and it gave me the code for TPS (the throttle blip I have been wondering about) and the code for the coolant temp curcuit.

 

mine doesnt idle really high
maybe a little bit, but its also hard to tell cause I dont have a tach yet.

 

Temp sensor, whos the man! whos the man!!!

Check your wiring for both!

 

my temp sensor works fine, I monitored the voltage as the car warmed up and it went down slowly., how could all of these engines have bad temp sensors? and I switched the sensors and it did nothing.
I still think we are missing something. the coolant sensor is wire number 28 its a yellow wire with a green tracer and silver dotted. is there any way something has to be jumped to it? like the gauge wire if it is not hoked up? or could it be a bad ground from the sensor? I am guessing thats what the other wire on the sensor is, a black ground.
AHHHHHHH someone gimme a next move.

 

Gauges run off the one wire sensor just next to it with the blue/black wire.

The ground for the sensor runs through the ECU I believe....

What about the air regulator, did that check out?

 

not yet I wanted to get the codes straightened out first. I thought that would be the better.

 

Good call....one thought....

Did you upgrade your fuel pump?

If so did you use an adjustable FPR to compensate for the higher flow?

Might be as simple as too much fuel....

Leaky injector might cause it too since you have to give it a little pedal to start it may just be WAY too rich.....

 

yeah I put a FPR on it. I didnt get a new fuel pump in it yet. and it does smell rich. but would the coolant sensor still have anything to do with it? I think the KA FPR is the same as the one that came on the RB, I will throw that one on and see if it starts any easier.
RK you got any extra stock RB20 FPRs layin around if the KA one isnt the same??????
I wonder is the TPS is involced in the starting problem also?
RK did you get the codes from your ECU to see what your prob is?

 

Jon do you have the parts of the FSM that has the TPS in it? my manual doesnt have the specs and the real testing of it.

 

should put out +0.5V when the plate is fully closed, that is how you calibrate it. And it should go to ~+4.0V at fully open

Buy/borrow a gauge and see if you are at 43PSI with the vacuum line removed on your fuel pressure....

Email me again and I will send you the portion of the guide....

 

One guy on another forum has the same problem.....check and make sure that you are getting an adequate START signal to the ECU, it advances the timing on startup to help it kick in.....He fixed his problem with this.....

He ran a new line from the ignition switch to the ECU.

 

That might be my problem-the start comes from the orange wire thru the dash harness and I couldn't find a orange in the skyline harness to hook up to. I don't get any codes from my computer I tried 2 of them, the light comes on when I first turn the key on, then it doesn't blink or anything when I turn it to check. My temp guage works fine, but mine smells rich on start up.

 

on the RB25 it goes to a grey/red....see if the RB20 is the same