i recently participated in my first local drift event. it was kinda rainy but nobody hit the walls so it was all good. i was talking to some other drifters, who are obviously more experienced with the track. most uprades they recommended me didnt make perfect sense to me. i have tein stech springs, megan racing strut bars and kazama hicas eliminator. i have 15x6.5 wheels with 195/60/15.

is it true that strut bars are bad for drifting because there is less weight transfer??

2 way lsd options, which company would be the best for the price? i work at nissan and can get a discount on nismo lsd, but some recommended me kazaa or cusco. japanese parts are so expensive

negative camber set up..... does it actually help break loose the rear and grip the front??

 

If you work at Nissan you should look into the S15 helical LSD. Just what I've heard.

 

I wouldn't get a HLSD for drifting, I'd get a Kaaz/Cusco/Tomei 2way (any good aftermarket companies 2way really)...strut bars shouldn't really have a negative effect, they help to stiffen the chassis but I don't think its too noticeable at all and doubt it would hamper your progression....

 

Sorry for the bad advice. I'll be quiet now.

 

s15 hsld wouldnt be that bad, but if it was for strictly for drifting it would be that great compared to the aftermarkets. plus you would be suprised how much s15 lsd is from nissan.

 

If you're building the car strictly for drifting, then I would suggest building the car's suspension first.

Don't worry about big-name products, just worry about what you'll need for your level of drifting. Once you hit the more advanced levels, then you can start buying more advanced parts.

You're probably working with close to stock horsepower, which is AWESOME because it'll teach you technique over just diving in WAY too fast or WAY too slow and then simply relying on your power to make up the difference.

I say, get a good set of struts and springs

KYB AGX struts and a nice set of lowering springs with a progressive spring-rate should do the trick.

The differential, for now, I say take it to a shop, get a welder to lock the spider gears up for you. I know that I catch flack for saying that, especially being a professional instructor, but if you want to work on what it feels like to drift with both wheels spinning, consistently, with little or no money spent, then you can't beat a good weld. Biggamehit can give you advice on which type of welder and welding material t use.

After the springs and struts, the only thing left to work on is the driver. Hell, you can buy a set of OEM springs and struts, most of them are 1000 times better than the stock struts because they're NEW, LOL, and it'll balance out your car better.

If you want to get technical, bushings, ball joints and anything, suspension wise, that's worn out, simply replace.

Once you're ready to move up in the leagues and your skills have caught up to the car, then you're ready to start working on tire selection, wheel choice, horsepower vs torque and increasing your power while decreasing your weight.

I'm no mechanic, but I'm a driver, any advice or help you need with the sort, I'm here to answer all of your questions, as most of the Club 240 guys here already know.

-Stig

P.S. Ask Ryguy about his inverted back massage . . . it's awesome!!!!

 

omfg dude in case you havent realized EVERYBODY CAN READ THAT! THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE BETWEEN US.

By the way slipperypanda, you're probably going to NEED new struts. Lowering springs on stock struts = super blown strut action.

 

I agree with USMC, since you're just starting there isn't a need for an expensive diff. You should definately weld your diff, it's consistent, cheap and very effective.

 

That's all that had to be said, ^_^

LOL!




I'm sorry, if it means anything, I didn't tell him about that "trick" you taught me.

-Stig