How do I remove the factory tweeters? and if there's a crossover where is it?

Thanks!!

 

You need to pull the A-pillar cover off (it pops off - just give it a tug) use a Philips screwdriver to remove the mounting screw, unplug the small wiring harness, and the tweeter will come out easy. The crossover is built-into the tweeter assembly itself, if I remember correctly.

 

Thanks!!
I'd like to have a component system with woofers, tweeters, and passive crossovers. How do I wire them?

 

It's gonna be a little tricky if you want to mount the tweeters in the stock position on the A pillar and the woofer in the door. IMO For components, you'd have 2 options, and both need a little custom work:

1) Both on the door: You could mount the entire component system in the doors. The woofer would go in the stock 6.5" plastic mount, but you'd have to install the tweeter onto the door somewhere. There's enough space behind many parts of the door panel to fulsh mount a tweeter, and you can hide the crossover there too. Obviously this would require that you cut a hole into the door panel to flush mount the tweeter.

2) Woofer in the door, tweeter in the A-pillar - this is probably how you wanna do it, but it'll take a little more work. The woofer will go in the door panel as usual, and the tweeter will go in the A pillar, but the tricky part is wiring. Most aftermarket components wire like so:

from head unit --> crossover unit --> 1 wire pair to woofer, 1 wire pair to tweeter

So to use the stock speaker positions you would have to do the following:

1) Mount the crossover somewhere on the door frame securely (double sided tape or wire ties).

2) Extend the stock speaker wires in the door and run them to the crossover that comes with the component set.

3) From the crossover again, run a new pair of wires to the new woofer. Mount the woofer in the door panel in stock position.

4) Now, you're gonna have to run a new pair of wires from the crossover to the A-pillar for the tweeter. You can't just connect the tweeter to the stock A-pillar wiring because then the sugnal won't go through your new crossover. You're going to have to either

A) Run a new pair of wires from the aftermarket crossover, through the door frame, into the interior, and up to the A-pillar. Then wire the new tweeter up and you're done.

OR

B) Buy some passive high-pass crossovers for the front tweeters, using the stock wiring.

 

Thanks a lot for your help. I think I would install the whole component set on the door. It'll be easier to do so..

Now, I have another question...
I just installed Alpine 7894 CD/MP3 headunit and removed the factory amp after rewiring. I 'd like to run a 8 ga. power wire from a battery for the Alpine headunit(It works now with power from harness but it needs power wire from a battery directly according to the manual) and I was wondering where I should put a hole to get the wire inside.

Thanks!!

 

Thanks a lot for your help. I think I would install the whole component set on the door. It'll be easier to do so..

Now, I have another question...
I just installed Alpine 7894 CD/MP3 headunit and removed the factory amp after rewiring. I 'd like to run a 8 ga. power wire from a battery for the Alpine headunit(It works now with power from harness but it needs power wire from a battery directly according to the manual) and I was wondering where I should put a hole to get the wire inside.

Thanks!!

 

Is that for the memory function for the head unit? (labelled something like 12+ constant)? If so, you don't actually need to run a wire direct to the battery... all you have to do if use a test light on the wires behind the center console and find one that has 12v positive while the car is off and the key isn't in the ignition. If this is for the main head unit power, you'd need to find a switched 12v wire (one that only has voltage when the key is in the ACC position or ON position).

 

Yes, it's for the yellow wire. The following is what's said by Alpine.

V-Drive Hybrid Amplifier: A V-Drive MOSFET power unit is used to boost the incoming voltage from 14.4 volts (approx.) to 17.2 volts. The increased voltage allows the unit to deliver peak output of 60 watts x 4 channels. While providing high power output, this unit can draw a substantial amount of current, so the constant power wire must be connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery in your vehicle.

Thanks.

 

That's interesting... I guess you'd have to run another wire then if you plan to turn your stereo up to max 24/7

 

So, how do I pass the wire through the firewall? I was trying to find a place I can use without drilling but I could not find.
Thanks for your help..

 

You try looking at where the factory harness goes through? It's underneath the right splash guard fender underneath thingy... jack up the right side, take the front wheel off, and take the plastic off and you'll see the wiring harness