ahhhh - how to run new wire in door!?
#1
ahhhh - how to run new wire in door!?
i have a 93 s13 and i am setting up new speakers throughout. i'm adding tweeters and i want to put them in the door panel. my huge issue now is getting a wire through the door jamb...there is barely any room so its impossible to work with. so the questions are as follows..
1. what is the best way to run a wire through the door jamb into the door?
2. can i use the stock amp wires that i used to bypass the amp...there are 2 left not including the ground. this would allow me to splice the unused stock amp wires before it went through the door. utilizing the stock wire i'd avoid having to wire the door jamb at all.
this has drove me insane..it is such a holdup in the progress and my hands are town up hopefully you guys can help. thanks in advance
1. what is the best way to run a wire through the door jamb into the door?
2. can i use the stock amp wires that i used to bypass the amp...there are 2 left not including the ground. this would allow me to splice the unused stock amp wires before it went through the door. utilizing the stock wire i'd avoid having to wire the door jamb at all.
this has drove me insane..it is such a holdup in the progress and my hands are town up hopefully you guys can help. thanks in advance
#2
Yes, you can use the stock wiring through the door, just cut off the amp, completely remove it from the door, and use the stock audio wires that led to them and extend them to the tweeters with speaker wire. You may not have as good of audio quality if you use the stock wiring as opposed to aftermarket speaker wire though. If you want to run completely new wiring then a coat hanger is your friend. Either way, get rid of those stock amps, they're worthless and just dead weight.
I think the drivers side front speaker uses a blue w/white stripe wire for the + and a blue w/yellow stripe for the -, cut the amp off and use those. The passenger side is brown + and brown w/white -
I think the drivers side front speaker uses a blue w/white stripe wire for the + and a blue w/yellow stripe for the -, cut the amp off and use those. The passenger side is brown + and brown w/white -
Last edited by ryguy; 06-25-2007 at 10:31 PM.
#3
It is true what Ryguy says, if you want thicker wire, you're going to have to run it. I don't see too much of an issue using the stock wiring though, it's definitely easier. Instead of cutting them completely off, I would tap into them...just strip the wiring back, tap the wire into it, then solder and secure with electrical tape. You never know what you might need the factory harness for again, so I'd just leave the wires connected, but unplugged just incase you ever need it again.
If you have true components out of the box, it should come with a crossover. There will be imputs for the stock wiring on it, then go out to the mid and tweeter. Just make all the connections there at the door--it's easier that way, then either bolt the crossover to the door, or put it behind the speaker under the window(just make sure it clears). You might want to put it in a bag or something too, to protect it from moisture.
If you need to buy a crossover, check Crutchfield.com, they should have some. Good luck mannn, if you need more help, holler at us.
If you have true components out of the box, it should come with a crossover. There will be imputs for the stock wiring on it, then go out to the mid and tweeter. Just make all the connections there at the door--it's easier that way, then either bolt the crossover to the door, or put it behind the speaker under the window(just make sure it clears). You might want to put it in a bag or something too, to protect it from moisture.
If you need to buy a crossover, check Crutchfield.com, they should have some. Good luck mannn, if you need more help, holler at us.
#4
hmm i guess i shouldve been a bit more clear.
i have it all planned out as you guys have mentioned above. the woofers are all wired up ready to go from the stock speaker wire. the amps have been bypassed and im now planning on using the stock amp wires. the problem is where to splice the stock amp wires inside the car?
according to the wiring diagram they split from each other and also split off into the fuse box etc. where is the best place to splice it? i haven't had much luck finding it either. i took the glove box off but there is so much crap up there i haven't had any luck and my hands are destroyed now.
the coathanger hasn't worked out so well for me either...mainly because its so tight in between the door its hard to get it down.
i have it all planned out as you guys have mentioned above. the woofers are all wired up ready to go from the stock speaker wire. the amps have been bypassed and im now planning on using the stock amp wires. the problem is where to splice the stock amp wires inside the car?
according to the wiring diagram they split from each other and also split off into the fuse box etc. where is the best place to splice it? i haven't had much luck finding it either. i took the glove box off but there is so much crap up there i haven't had any luck and my hands are destroyed now.
the coathanger hasn't worked out so well for me either...mainly because its so tight in between the door its hard to get it down.
#5
Use a very thin coat hanger, its hard to explain, but there are stiff coat hangers and floppy coat hangers. If that doesnt work try thin gauge insulated wire.
So you mean you are using the stock amp wires as a signal wire to turn on the crossovers? According to the FSM there is a lavender wire that runs directly to the ignition. I think that's your remote wire. I can't figure out what the light green does though, but I think its a constant 12v for all the amplifiers. Check it out, I might be wrong. Sorry if this still doesnt answer your question.
So you mean you are using the stock amp wires as a signal wire to turn on the crossovers? According to the FSM there is a lavender wire that runs directly to the ignition. I think that's your remote wire. I can't figure out what the light green does though, but I think its a constant 12v for all the amplifiers. Check it out, I might be wrong. Sorry if this still doesnt answer your question.
#6
If you could show me the wiring diagram you're talking about, I could probably help you, but it looks to me that you want to know where to get your audio signal to the amp from? If not, then I apologize for misunderstanding...but you're going to want to wire it from where you unplugged the harness on the stock amp.
If there are multiple amps, you're going to have to rewire them individually.
If there are multiple amps, you're going to have to rewire them individually.
#7
well im dealing with just the front speakers. i'm putting in components. i bypassed both front amps so i have the harness left. i have the woofer hooked up which i utilized the stock speaker wires and tapped into them at the back of the head unit to power them from the crossover unit. this leaves me with (on the passenger side door) 3 wires out of the 5. a solid blue, light green, and a black. the black is a ground according to the FSM. so i was going to use the other 2 wires to power the tweeter. simply hooking up the one end of each wire to the tweeters then tapping in to the wires on the inside of the car completely bypassing whatever previous function the wires were for.
however the simply part seems to be the most difficult. i'm having trouble with finding where the wires go to tap into them. it also seems like they split at some points and go into fuses etc. i have tried with extremely difficulty and no luck to run new wires through the grommet but it is really tricky, either the tape keeps coming off the coathanger as i put it through or it doesnt go where i want it. even once its in how the hell do i get the tape off? not much access up there.
i took the glovebox out and you can see a bit better but it doesnt help much. i was able to get a coathanger through and be able to grab it on each end. im gonna have to play around with this more and see if i can get it to pull the wire back through. my hands are all cut up so its been a real pain to do.
the wires in the door are labeled "B" "LG" and "L" i'm assuming "B" is black - which is the ground. LG is the light green and "L" i guess is the blue.
the amps done with and i just want to hijack these wires and use it to send my tweeter signal through to avoid wiring the door which is an enormous pain. i even considered taking the fender off today. ill have to experiment more with the coathanger but its real tough. at this point i've actually pushed the grommet in the door and its not even sitting in the right spot anymore. hopefully i can deal with this tomorrow.
so either solution will work for me at this point. running new wires or simply finding a point to tap into the current amp wires which i will then utilize as tweeter wires. neither seems to be so easy.
really appreciate the help thanks guys. i can post pics tomorrow of my situation.
however the simply part seems to be the most difficult. i'm having trouble with finding where the wires go to tap into them. it also seems like they split at some points and go into fuses etc. i have tried with extremely difficulty and no luck to run new wires through the grommet but it is really tricky, either the tape keeps coming off the coathanger as i put it through or it doesnt go where i want it. even once its in how the hell do i get the tape off? not much access up there.
i took the glovebox out and you can see a bit better but it doesnt help much. i was able to get a coathanger through and be able to grab it on each end. im gonna have to play around with this more and see if i can get it to pull the wire back through. my hands are all cut up so its been a real pain to do.
the wires in the door are labeled "B" "LG" and "L" i'm assuming "B" is black - which is the ground. LG is the light green and "L" i guess is the blue.
the amps done with and i just want to hijack these wires and use it to send my tweeter signal through to avoid wiring the door which is an enormous pain. i even considered taking the fender off today. ill have to experiment more with the coathanger but its real tough. at this point i've actually pushed the grommet in the door and its not even sitting in the right spot anymore. hopefully i can deal with this tomorrow.
so either solution will work for me at this point. running new wires or simply finding a point to tap into the current amp wires which i will then utilize as tweeter wires. neither seems to be so easy.
really appreciate the help thanks guys. i can post pics tomorrow of my situation.
#10
It is tight in there but I just ran new wire through that boot. I pulled the boot on the car side to expose the wire. Took a hanger and taped the wire to the end of the hanger I put in first. Fed the wire through the door, in through the boot until I saw the end coming through the side of the boot that I pulled off. Separated the wire from the hanger and just manually fed the wire down into the car. Eventually it will reach the floor. I just did this yesterday when installing my folding mirrors.
#11
You've probably already done all this but make sure your windows are down, makes it a lot easier to spot the wire while looking inside the door. I took the straight wire and sorta bent it at a 35 degree angle and inserted it through the rubber grommet. If you push it straight in it will go behind the lowered window so you have to turn it slightly so that the bent section passes in front of the window. The goal is to get the coat hanger as close to this oval thing
as you can so you can reach in and grab it with your hand. Then, while looking through the oval, manuever it as close to the opening as you can. That oval is pretty big so you can get your hand in there a pretty good distance so you won't have to get the wire in that far before you can grab it. Also be careful not to scratch up your window by tugging on the coat hanger. Let me know if this helps.
as you can so you can reach in and grab it with your hand. Then, while looking through the oval, manuever it as close to the opening as you can. That oval is pretty big so you can get your hand in there a pretty good distance so you won't have to get the wire in that far before you can grab it. Also be careful not to scratch up your window by tugging on the coat hanger. Let me know if this helps.
#12
im using thicker wire...where the 2 pieces are still stuck together...looks like home speaker wire and i think it is. maybe if i seperate the 2 to give me a bit more room it will make my life easier..i'll keep you posted. thanks guys
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